Every spring, birdwatchers across the country welcome the return of hummingbirds as they migrate north. These tiny, beautiful birds are a delight to watch as they hover and dart throughout the garden, and the males put on quite a show as they protect their territory and attract mates. And while hummingbird feeders do provide nourishment to the energetic birds, let’s face it – an active feeder is a source of pure pleasure for gardeners and bird-lovers alike.

Hummingbird Facts

Of the over 300 species of hummingbirds, about 16 species breed in the United States. The ruby-throated hummingbird is by far the most common east of the Mississippi, but be on the lookout for other types as well. Hummingbirds undertake a grueling migration every year, wintering in the Southern U.S., Mexico, and Central and South America, then returning in the spring to breed throughout North America.

Photo by Cheryl Empey

Hummingbird migration is a product of instinct and nature. Most researchers agree that feeding hummingbirds will not alter these migration patterns, and many gardeners like to extend the feeding season to support migrating birds.

Hummingbirds eat from 5 to 14 meals an hour. Their diet consists of flower nectar (which is largely sucrose, or sugar water) and protein, in the form of spiders, soft-bodied insects, and larvae. They can consume up to 50% of their body weight in nectar each day.

The typical hummingbird nest is about the size of half a walnut shell. The nest is constructed largely of spider silk and plant down, and the outside is covered with lichens, moss, or other camouflaging plant material.

Look for hummingbird nests in trees and shrubs that provide shelter from weather and predators such as azaleas, rhododendrons, camellias, wax myrtle, hollies, oaks (especially live oaks), pines, red maple, and sycamore. They may be near the tips of branches, with overhead leaf protection but space for cooling summer breezes. Although less common, look for nests on porches and other sheltered spots as well.

Choosing a Hummingbird Feeder

There are many different types of hummingbird feeders on the market, and some are quite beautiful. Most come in bright colors to mimic large, nectar-rich flowers. The key to feeding hummingbirds is safety – nectar spoils easily, and bacteria can be dangerous for the birds. Choose a feeder that is easy to refill and clean, or two identical ones with dishwasher-safe parts, so that you can rotate them.

Making Nectar

The best type of nectar is a simple sucrose (table sugar) solution. More expensive nectar mixes are unnecessary, as the birds obtain the added nutrients from eating insects, and the red color is not needed due to brightly-colored feeders.

To most closely mimic flower nectar, use a 1:4 ratio – one part white cane sugar to four parts water. Some gardeners use a rich 1:1 solution in the early spring, to fuel migrating and nesting birds and to encourage the bird to stay at that feeder. After 2-3 weeks, switch to the 1:4 solution to encourage more feeding activity. Never use honey or brown sugar, since they spoil very quickly and can harbor dangerous bacteria.

To discourage spoilage and mold growth, boil the sugar solution for several minutes, and allow it to cool to room temperature before using. Store any excess in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to five days. Immediately discard any solution that looks cloudy or has black mold.

Using Your Feeder

Feeders MUST be clean and sanitized to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria. Clean your feeder using mild dish soap, or boiling water, or a mild bleach solution. Whatever the cleaning method, rinse the feeder extremely well. The nectar solution will only last 3-5 days outdoors, and less in hot summer weather. Once you get an idea of how much the birds are eating, only fill your feeder with enough nectar to last 2-3 days, and empty it sooner if it looks cloudy.

Hang the feeder near flowering plants or next to trees where the birds may build their nests. Once a bird has found your feeder, it will return for frequent visits and become quite bold, so get your camera ready!

Planting a Hummingbird Garden

When planning a hummingbird garden, consider including the following elements:

• Water for bathing and drinking, such as a birdbath or fountain.
• Space between flowering plants to give the birds room to hover.
• An organic garden free of pesticides which can be toxic to hummingbirds.
• Leafy shrubs for cover and nesting.
• Flowering plants for feeding.
• Lots of bright colors, particularly red.
• Mosses for nesting materials.

Some flowering plants to consider include:

• Bee balm – Monarda didyma
• Canna - Canna sp.
• Cardinal flower - Lobelia cardinalis
• Columbine - Aquilegia sp.
• Coral bells - Heuchera sanguinea
• Delphinium - Delphinium elatum
• Flame acanthus - Acanthus mollis
• Four o’clock - Mirabilis jalapa
• Foxglove - Digitalis purpurea
• Fuschia - Fuschia hybrida
• Hibiscus – Hibiscus sp.
• Hollyhock - Althea rosea
• Honeysuckle - Lonicera sp.
• Lantana - Lantana sp.
• Lupine - Lupinus hybrids
• Penstemon - Penstemon sp.
• Petunia - Petunia hybrida
• Trumpet creeper - Campsis radicans
• Trumpet vines - Bignonia tagliabuana

Also consider planting shrubs and trees such as:

• Azalea - Rhododendron sp.
• Bottlebrush - Callistemon lanceolatus
• Butterfly bush - Buddleia davidii
• Eucalyptus - Eucalyptus sp.
• Flowering quince - Chaenomeles sp.
• Mimosa - Albizia julibrissin
• Weigela - Weigela rosea

Further Information

For more info on hummingbirds, check out websites like hummingbirds.net and worldofhummingbirds.com for migration maps and information about specific species. Many websites welcome photographs and submissions of hummingbird sightings for migration mapping and research.

Happy hummingbird-watching!

I tend to be the type of homeowner who’s willing to try just about anything. Fortunately, it didn’t take me long to learn the location of the main power switch in my home and the water cut-off valve at the street. If my home improvement activities get too dire, I turn off one or the other and wait patiently for back-up to arrive.

I live in a 50-year-old house that I’ve owned for four years, with a yard that’s never seen much TLC. So I decided to aerate my lawn this spring as a prelude to its gradual rehabilitation. I rented an aerator from a local rental store for the bargain price of $60 for the weekend. When my male colleagues laughed at this prospect, I made sure to ask the man at the rental place if a 130-pound woman could handle the machine. While he insisted it would be no problem, I suspect he chuckled when I drove away with it.

I should have suspected trouble when it took two men to load the bright blue machine in the back of my Honda Element. In fact, the BlueBird aerator weighs in at nearly 300 pounds – and that’s without the two 36 lb. removable weights that it comes with for extra traction. Fortunately, a friend who found out about my weekend project cut two pieces of lumber to make a ramp to help get the machine in and out of my car.

Photo Courtesy of BlueBird

What is Lawn Aeration

To the initiated, an aerator resembles a lawn mower only a little wider, squatter, and heavier. The undercarriage looks like a medieval torture device, with a spinning cylinder of rotating coring spikes, much like a round hair brush on steroids. The idea behind aerating your yard is to break up the compacted soil which in turn:

• Enhances the transfer of water, oxygen, and nutrients into the soil.
• Promotes microorganisms that help breakdown thatch.
• Reduces the runoff of fertilizer and pesticides.
• Encourages root system growth.

It would have been helpful if the rental center could have located the operator’s manual. Instead, I was given a short verbal course, with particular emphasis on how to stop the machine.

Once in my yard, the BlueBird behaved more like a Brahma bull than its feathery namesake. Pushing it wasn’t a problem, since it happily propelled itself around the yard with little assistance while I trotted along behind trying my best to keep up. But when you actually had to turn the Bird is when things got tricky. Hairpin turns are not its specialty and the wide turning radius made for some unexpected detours and startled animals. And you better hope you don’t get it mired in a soft spot, because the next thing you know, the Bird is on its way to China.

Because the machine is so powerful, it only took about 15 minutes to aerate the entire yard. But my aerating activity made so much racket that my neighbor came out to see what was going on. That was his misfortune because he then got roped into helping me load the BlueBird back into my car.

That said, I’m sure a professional lawn service could have done a better job, but I wasn’t about to pay a couple of hundred dollars for what I could do for less than half that amount plus a bottle of Advil. And I did inform the man at the rental place that an aerator was better suited for someone more substantial, which I suspect he knew anyway.

But the good news is, a few weeks have passed, and I can already see the difference in my yard. At last my grass can breathe and is on its way down the road to recovery.

The birds are singing and the grass is growing, so what better way to celebrate the arrival of spring and mark the launch of our new “Around the Yard” lawn and garden section at dannylipford.com than by giving away a Cub Cadet Zero-Turn Lawn Tractor valued at $2,699!

The Cub Cadet iSeries ZTT42 riding mower features an 18 horsepower Kohler OHV engine, 360 degree Zero-Turn maneuverability, a 42” cutting width, and synchronized steering.

To enter, simply fill out the Cub Cadet Riding Mower Giveaway entry form. Entries will be accepted from May 1st through June 15th 2008, with the winner selected on June 16th.

You could be the envy of the neighborhood this summer as you cruise around your lawn in style, so enter today!

Well pruned shrubs and trees are a hallmark of a carefully tended yard or garden. Foundation plantings are lush and full, and blooming shrubs display their blossoms on shapely branches that accentuate each plant’s unique style.

In addition to proper planting, watering, and fertilizing; pruning is an important practice for promoting plant health and enhancing the natural size and shape of landscape plants. Pruning is easy—a basic understanding of plant growth, and a few simple techniques, and you’ll be ready to go.

Tools

Most pruning tools have an arc-shaped blade, which makes short work of slicing through small branches. “Scissor action” pruners involve two sharp blades sliding past each other “Anvil cut” pruners have one blade slicing against a wide, flat surface. While scissor action pruners are more expensive, they usually make the cleanest, closest cuts.

Hedge clippers have long, straight blades. They are used for cutting small, green branches and tips and are best reserved for shearing formal hedges. Pruning saws come in a variety of shapes and sizes, with blades designed for larger branches and small trunks.

Make sure blades are kept sharp and oil them periodically. To prevent the spread of plant diseases, clean and disinfect pruning tools after use.

Proper Timing

Spring-flowering shrubs, such as these, should be pruned immediately after blooming:

• Andromeda
• Azalea
• Chinese Redbud
• Fringe Tree
• Kerria
• Mock Orange
• Philadelphus
• Pieris
• Roses
• Spiraea (early varieties)
• Mountain Laurel
• Viburnum
• Syringa (Lilac)
• Japanese Quince
• Pearlbush
• Star magnolia
• Weigela
• Rhododendron
• Deutzia
• Forsythia
• Lonicera

Shrubs that bloom in summer and fall, and shrubs grown primarily for their foliage, can be pruned in early spring, before growth starts:

• Abelia
• Callicarpa (Beauty Berry)
• Hydrangea
• Spirea (late varieties)
• Summersweet
• Crape Myrtle
• Snowberry
• Barberry
• Lagerstroemia
• Boxwood
• Buddleia (Butterfly Bush)
• Clethra
• Hypericum
• Bluebeard
• Shrub Althea
• Coralberry
• Chaste Tree
• Hibiscus
• Privet
• Ilex (Holly)

The soft, green growing tip of a branch is called the “terminal bud.” This bud produces a hormone that affects the growth of side branches. The biology of basic pruning is simple: if you remove the terminal bud, the lateral buds below your cut will be stimulated to grow into more branches. If you leave the terminal bud, the branch will grow longer instead of thicker.

Choosing the Branches

Start by removing any of the branches illustrated below that don’t belong.

Next, look at your shrub with a critical eye while considering the following questions:

• What is this shrub’s natural size and shape (rounded, arching, tree-like)?
• What is the design purpose of this shrub (hedge, foundation planting, specimen plant)?
• Does the plant growth need to be influenced to achieve that purpose?
• Is the shrub healthy and growing evenly?

A well-pruned shrub looks natural, and in most cases doesn’t look like it has been pruned at all. If a shrub’s natural shape does not suit your taste or needs, consider moving it and planting one that is better suited for that location.

Making the Cuts

There are five basic techniques for pruning shrubs. Most pruning jobs will involve a combination of techniques.

1. Pinching back: Simply use your fingers to pinch off the terminal bud of the branch. This will encourage lateral branches to form and can be a great way to prevent more pruning later on.

   

2. Heading back: This method removes the terminal bud, resulting in more branches. Cut the branch at an angle, about ¼” above a branch bud and sloping down and away from the bud. The branches about 6” to 8” below your cut will be stimulated the most, so keep that in mind when choosing where to cut. The bud nearest the cut determines the direction the branch grows, with the outward facing bud usually resulting in the best shape. If a heading cut is made in the middle of a branch with no bud, the result will be a flush of growth at the site of the cut.

   

3. Thinning: Thinning involves removing branches while leaving the terminal bud. Make the cut just outside the branch collar, which is the bulge where the branch meets the stem, but don’t leave a stub. Thinning can produce a more open, shapely plant, without altering its overall size, shape, or growth habit.

   

4. Renewal or rejuvenation pruning: Renewal pruning involves removing the oldest stems and branches at the base, then thinning or heading back the younger stems to promote regrowth. With rejuvenation pruning, the entire shrub is cut to stubs less than 12”. This drastic measure is usually done if a shrub has become an overgrown, tangled mass that is not blooming well.

   

5. Shearing: Shearing involves trimming off the tips of branches and is best used only for formal hedges. Shearing alters the shrub’s natural shape and promotes thick growth only on the exterior of the plant, which results in dead foliage and lack of growth on the interior branches.

   

For most shrubs, pruning is a forgiving task - once you learn how each plant grows, you can correct previous pruning mistakes as you go. With a little practice, pruning becomes intuitive and is a quick way to revitalize your yard or garden.

Spring has officially arrived! To help you shake off those winter blues and get motivated to spruce things up around your yard we’re giving away a cornucopia of lawn and garden gizmos and gadgets including everything from solar powered lights to an electronic timer for your faucet. To enter, simply fill out the entry form on the right side of the page.

Here’s what you’ll win:

• Gilmour Electronic Water Timer
• Malibu Solar Accent Lights
• Ross Root Feeder
• Gutter Getter Gutter Care Kit
• Gilmour Lawn Sprinkler
• Orbit DripMaster Misting Sprinklers
• PlantExchange In-ground Planter System
• Bulb and Plant Auger
• Hound Dog Mini-Tiller
• Vertex Garden Tool Organizer

All entries must be received before May 1, 2008, to be eligible to win. See contest rules for details.

Cast iron grates from Iron Age Designs are not only functional and beautiful but are made using mostly recycled materials and qualify for LEED green building credits. Grates come in over a dozen designs with sizes to fit most standard applications from drain and tree grates to wall registers for heating ducts. Made in the United States, Iron Age Designs can produce custom patterns and sizes as well, with no order considered too small. In addition to cast iron, grates can also be made from aluminum or silicone bronze.

Spring is on the way, and warm weather is beginning to peek around the corner, inviting us outdoors and begging gardeners to get their hands dirty. But unless you live in a tropical climate, there is still plenty of freezing weather to come, so don’t get ahead of yourself! Resist the urge to set out new plants, and use this promising season to pay a visit to your garden and tend to what’s already there.

1. Give your shrubs a makeover. This is a good time to prune shrubs, except for those that bloom in the spring. Remove any deadwood and encourage the shrub’s natural shape.

2. Complete that “Honey-Do” list. Finish building that trellis, raised bed, or stepping-stone path you started last fall. Inspect your garden for any needed structural repairs.

3. Clear out the rubbish! Remove debris from drainage ditches, gutters, and planting beds. Clear unwanted brush and undergrowth. Cut back dead foliage on last year’s perennials and ornamental grasses before new growth starts.

4. Make use of all that trash. Turn your compost pile, or start one now.

5. Be proactive. Get rid of weeds as they sprout, and go ahead and take measures to protect your garden from pests.

6. Feed the ground. Once your soil is dry enough, amend your planting beds by “top-dressing” with a couple of inches of compost or your favorite organic mix.

7. Dress it up (and protect) with mulch. Even out your mulch with a rake to a depth of 2 to 4 inches and add more if needed. In colder climates, lightly cover early bulb shoots to protect them from a hard freeze.

8. Spring-clean the potting shed. Give your gardening tools a good oiling, sharpening, and tune-up. Clean out empty flower pots, and dispose of any unused or broken ones. Old clay pots can be broken up to use for drainage in container gardens.

9. Take care of our feathered friends. Clean out and inspect birdhouses and feeders.

10. Don’t forget the lawn. Early spring is a great time for correcting and reseeding the lawn. Hold off on disturbing the soil, or heavy raking, if the ground is still frozen.

11. Move it indoors. Start seeds indoors for later planting in the garden. Repot houseplants if needed, and prune any dead foliage or overgrowth.

12. Plan and dream! Spend these first days of spring in your garden making plans for the coming year. As you enjoy the fresh air, sunshine, and emerging birds, indulge in the excitement that only spring can bring. Spring is the season of possibility and renewal, so inspect your garden with a critical eye and an open mind – what is it asking you to do this year?

While other parts of the country are still buried under a thick blanket of snow, here in the Deep South, the azaleas are already in full bloom and the first bright green leaves on the trees are beginning to unfurl. What better time than the first day of spring to launch our new website dedicated to your lawn and garden!

Around the Yard features a wealth of articles and videos to help turn your yard into the envy of the neighborhood. From selecting fertilizer and propagating roses to laying stepping stones and choosing the right fence, our outdoor experts take the mystery out of growing a garden and caring for your lawn.

We want Around the Yard to become your home on the web for everything green. So if you have a tip that makes your garden grow, or would like to share a picture of your backyard retreat or prize rose, send them to editor@dannylipford.com and we may feature them on the site. Here’s to the warm days, green grass, and blue skies ahead. May your thumb always be green!

Determining when to plant in the spring can be harder than predicting the ups and downs of the stock market. Part science and part superstition, deciding when to plant is the biggest decision of the year if you farm for a living. For the rest of us, it usually just means a little extra work and another stop at the nursery if the weather doesn’t cooperate.

Each region of the country is different, and even within a specific area there may be large fluctuations due to factors like altitude and terrain. That said, the average date of the last spring frost and recommended times to put out summer plants like tomatoes and corn in the lower 48 states are given below.

For more detailed information, check out the maps on these websites:

• NOAA National Climatic Data Center: Last Freeze in Spring
• U.S. National Arboretum
• Avant-Gardening: Frost Zone Map
• Better Homes and Gardens: Last Spring Frost Map