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Fall Maintenance Checklist

Lawn and Garden, Repairs and Installation, Exterior Published 10/27/2006 by Danny Lipford


Fall Maintenance Checklist

With the colder weather approaching many people are beginning to think about getting their homes ready for fall and winter. Much of the routine maintenance that needs to be done this time of year will not only help keep you cozy this winter, it will also help save money on your heating bill and of course help protect your biggest investment, your home.

While most of the routine maintenance tasks are fairly simple - the list is long. So follow along with our checklist to help keep you on track and make sure the cold doesn’t do too much damage to either your home or your wallet.

Trim Back Trees & Hedges

Trimming your trees and hedges at the beginning of fall will not only leave you with less mess, it will also improve the appearance of your shrubbery and prevent or correct a safety hazard. While power tools are terrific (and almost a must for a large number of trees and bushes) most seasonal pruning and trimming can be taken care of with three or four affordable hand tools.

Hand pruners, hedge trimmers, loping shears and a pruning saw will take care of most small branches and limbs. First look for and remove dead or diseased limbs, cut back all excessive growth and then trim the bush into the desired shape. For taller trees and thicker limbs, consider calling in a professional especially if branches are dangerously close to power lines. You may also consider contacting your town or utility company, as major tree trimming may be their responsibility.

Fertilize Your Lawn

Fall is a great time to fertilize your lawn as it provides grass with the nutrients required for the winter when the top layer of grass is dormant but the root systems continue to grow. During this period roots easily absorb and store the nutrients a good fertilizer will provide and fall fertilizing will also help your lawn “green-up” faster in early spring. Depending on your part of the country and the type of grass you have, the correct fertilizer for your lawn many vary. However, almost all zones and lawn types require a fertilizer rich in nitrogen and phosphorus. Nitrogen affects the color, rooting and disease resistance of a lawn and a yellowish appearance may signal a nitrogen deficiency. Phosphorus is the key for strong roots and a lawn deficient in Phosphorus may have an unusual tint that may be on the purple side. A lawn rich in Phosphorus will fight disease better and be more tolerant to extreme elements.

Store Your Lawnmower Correctly

Now that you have cut your grass for the final time this year, take a few minutes to properly store your lawnmower in order to easily start it up in the spring. First, completely remove all fuel by either draining the gas tank or running it empty. Alternatively, consider adding a fuel conditioner and topping up the gas tank to prevent any moisture from condensing in the tank. Once you have added the conditioner, run the engine for a minute or two to circulate the additive through the carburetor. This will help prevent gum from forming in the fuel system or on essential carburetor parts. Next remove spark plugs and apply a small amount of oil into the cylinder. Start your engine to burn off oil as well as lubricate the pistons, rings and cylinder walls. Finally, wipe your lawnmower clean of all grass and debris and be sure to store it in a clean, dry area far away from any stove, furnace, water heater or other appliance that uses a pilot light or can create a spark.

Seal Up Cracks and Gaps and Apply Caulking and Weather-Stripping

If you were to measure the total space of the cracks, gaps and holes around the perimeter of an average home, you would find a hole that is roughly three feet square. Imagine how much heat can escape through a space that large. To prevent the loss of heat through these spaces, inspect the perimeter of your home and apply caulking or weather-stripping wherever necessary. Both caulking and weather stripping can reduce the flow of cold air in, warm air out and ultimately cut energy costs.

Check the following key areas to inspect for leaks:

  • Around door and window frames
  • Around exterior openings including utility outlets, phone lines, outside plumbing faucet, vents and fans
  • Around heating and/or air conditioning
  • Around room air conditioners
  • At corners formed by siding
  • Openings around drain pipes in bathroom and kitchen

How to caulk

Clean surface by removing dirt, loose paint and old caulk and thoroughly dry surface. Determine which caulk to use based on the size of crack or gap and the surrounding material. Cut tip off tube of caulking at 45° angle and load into caulking gun. The nozzle is tapered, so the amount you cut off determines whether you have a thin, medium or heavy bead of caulk. Cut near the narrow end for a narrow bead or further up for a wider bead. Use a long nail to break the inner seal and plug the nozzle when finished. Apply caulk by laying a uniform bead of caulk overlapping both sides and completely fill the crack. Remove excess caulking and allow it to dry.

Applying weather-stripping

Apply weather-stripping at joints where two surfaces meet, such as windows and doors to provide an airtight seal. There are a few different types of weather stripping and each has its benefits and drawbacks. Once you choose the appropriate weather stripping, follow the instructions for proper application.

  • Tape - lasts only one year and should only be used on windows or doors that will not be opened. Tends to dry and loosen within one heating season
  • Felt - lasts only one or two years and should be used on top or side of doors or window frames for sealing gaps of uniformly narrow width
  • Foam - lasts only one or two years and should be used on the bottom of window sashes or around the frame of a warped or loose-fitting door (wood-backed foam)
  • Tubular gasket and vinyl tubing - lasts around five years and can be used on windows or doors.

Inspect Your Roof

Check your roof for signs of minor damage such as missing, broken, cracked or curling shingles, or bare spots where the granular coating has worn off, and be sure to make the necessary minor repairs now to prevent further damage. When moisture is able to seep up and under loose or damaged shingles far more expensive damage can occur. For extensive roof repairs, consider having a professional perform the work. However, if you are fairly handy and are comfortable climbing the ladder, you should be able to take care of most minor repairs. Purchase roofing cement in caulking tubes to seal minor cracks and holes and glue down curled shingles (for larger jobs, purchase the larger containers). If the damage is extensive, or the shingle is missing, immediately replace it to prevent more serious damage from occurring. Also, if you have a fireplace, be sure to check for gaps around your flashing and caulk to seal.

Clean and Repair Gutters

Dirty, clogged gutters can cause a myriad of problems during the winter months including flooded basements as well as damage to your foundation and landscaping. To clean, simply remove all debris so that water can drain properly and consider installing gutter guards to prevent additional debris from building up. If you don’t enjoy climbing ladders, consider assembling a homemade gutter cleaner using long strips of PVC pipe attached to a regular garden hose. This will allow you to frequently and safely rinse out your gutters ensuring they do not become clogged.

2 Comments to “Fall Maintenance Checklist”

  1. manny torres Says:
    October 2nd, 2007 at 10:16 pm

    just want to say thnks for the great advice on winter prep for the home..looking forward to the next e-mail….

  2. Jane Doe Says:
    November 2nd, 2007 at 2:37 pm

    Good ideas! How about some tips on
    where mice can get into your home.
    Thanks!


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