
Expert Advice for your Lawn & Garden TV Host of Today's Homeowner® and home expert for The Weather ChannelHome Improvement, Lawn and Garden, Painting, Exterior, CBS The Early Show, Landscaping & Design Published 09/04/2007 by Danny Lipford

Of all the remodeling projects, by far, the one tackled more often by homeowners is painting. We’re entering the time of the year when it makes sense to take on any outside painting, because the weather is going to be cooler and more comfortable. But not all outdoor painting projects are equal. You may have several types of surfaces to paint outside your home and each has its own unique method to ensure success. Here are a few tips that, hopefully, will keep your colors and your painting experience bright.

Whether it’s lap siding, board and battens or porch railings, if you want a successful paint job, it all starts with preparation. As is often the case with wood surfaces that have to deal with Mother Nature, the old paint begins to flake, exposing raw wood.. Before you pick up your paint brush, you need to remove as much of the old, flaking paint as possible. This can be done with a simple paint scraper. If, however, you have a large area in need of scraping, you’re best bet is to use a drill motor or cordless drill with an attachment specifically designed for stripping paint. A synthetic fiber wheel does a great job and lasts much longer than the old sandpaper wheels that are often used. For very stubborn spots, you could also apply a chemical paint stripper. This, however, will mean that the job is going to take you longer to complete because the surface needs to be completely dry before moving on to the next step. Once the loose paint is removed, prime the raw wood with a good quality primer before applying a finished coat of paint.
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The process for iron work, such as railings, columns or decorative hangings is very similar to wood, which means the most important step is preparation. Using your drill motor or cordless drill with a wire wheel attachment is perfect for removing any rust or deteriorating paint. There are also chemical strippers available for iron, but in most cases, the wire wheel is sufficient. To prime the metal surface, you need to choose a primer made for metals. You can purchase it in liquid form and apply it with a brush like normal paint, but if the metal has intricate details, you’d be better off using an aerosol spray primer. The metal primer will typically have a rust inhibitor formulated in it and will be either a gray or burnt umber color when applied. Once the primer dries, it provides a surface that new paint will bind to so it will last for years without flaking.

Brick, cinder block and stucco surfaces all have one thing in common: They are porous. Preparation for masonry surfaces starts with sealing them. A masonry primer will do the job, but be forewarned, these sealers are usually quite thick, more so than paint, and it takes a lot longer to cover the area you’re painting, but it needs to be done. Actually, there are some newer methods out there to spray the sealers on masonry surfaces as well as new paint, but it’s mainly done by professionals and not for do-it-yourselfers.
Concrete is very similar, but in addition to being able to paint it, you can also put stain on it. Staining can actually be a little less strenuous than painting since coverage is greater and it’s easier to apply. There are a lot of colors to choose from, too, so you can match or compliment other colors on your house.

Although I already mentioned wrought iron, there are other metal surfaces around your house that could stand a coat of paint at times. Eave metal, valley metal and even roof vents can all be painted. The challenge is how to prepare them. Most of these metals are galvanized and paint, typically, won’t stick to them. The secret is a common item you probably have in your kitchen pantry. Take a rag and dip it in simple white vinegar. Swab the metal surface with the soaked rag and allow it to dry. There is a chemical reaction with the vinegar that creates a surface that any spray paint will adhere to. Roof vents are probably the best thing to spray paint, because you can paint it a color to match your shingles and help make it blend into the color of the roof. It really looks a lot better than a dull, rusty metal vent.
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Finally, for items such as lawn furniture or even something as simple as a flower pot made from plastic, there are some really great ways to make them look spectacular. Certainly, a spray paint formulated to bond with plastic is what you want to use, but you don’t have to settle for simple color any more. First, wash the plastic with a water and mild detergent solution to remove any dirt and grime. Once it is completely dry, you can spray paint it with some of the new plastic paints that also will spray on a texture, such as hammered metal. You’ve got several color choices and it makes a really unique appearance.
One final word of advice. Be sure to read the directions to any of these specialty paints paying close attention to recommended weather conditions, proper ventilation and application options.
Watch the segment on CBS The Early Show’s website.
Comments Below
September 5th, 2007 at 11:52 am
[…] If you are having trouble trying to figure out how to paint on a particular surface, whether it’s wrought iron, wood or metal, television show host and expert Do It Yourself personality Danny Lipford has some suggestions that could help you. […]
September 6th, 2007 at 7:07 am
[…] Painting is a popular home improvement project, and one can never have too many tips … Lipford says that each type of surface has its own set of painting methods. […]
September 16th, 2007 at 10:09 am
Can you paint a wooden deck with semi-gloss paint? or with any other type of paint?? Or do you have to stain it, because it is a deck?

Nicholas Roussos Says:September 17th, 2007 at 11:52 am
Donna,
Ben, our web editor, made a comment about painting decks not too long ago. It didn’t sound like that great of an idea to me.
October 11th, 2007 at 1:12 pm
We are almost done with the prep work for painting the outside of our home. My question is, what if the weather turns bad and we can only get the primer on. We live in north Idaho. Will we need have to put primer on again in the Spring? Our home was built in 1920 and has never had any of the paint removed, just layer after layer of paint. Thanks for any help you can give me.
Jacqui
October 13th, 2007 at 4:17 pm
I am hiring a contractor to install a custom wrought iron metal fence at my house in Minneapolis. We want to paint it black.
I am hearing different stories about whether to galvanize the iron before painting.
Any advise out there on whether to galvanize?
Paul
October 28th, 2007 at 12:36 pm
What is the best way to prep masonite for repainting? The original white paint is now shows dark areas possible mildew.
Awaiting your reply.

Ben Erickson Says:November 7th, 2007 at 12:26 pm
Jacqui,
It is best to paint over primer within 30 days of application. After that it might begin to chaulk and the top coat will not adhere to it as well. Perhaps you could prime and paint part of the house before winter rather than priming it all.

Ben Erickson Says:November 7th, 2007 at 12:34 pm
J. Wargacki,
Be sure to remove any mildew first using a bleach and water solution. If the mildew/mold has gotten underneath the painted surface, you have a bigger problem on your hands, and you might have to replace it.