Raul,

There are a number of possibilities that could be causing your problem including a leaky roof, plumbing leaks, excessive moisture in the crawl space, a slab that wasn’t waterproofed correctly, condensation in the walls due to an improperly installed vapor barrier, or damage from flooding.

While it’s not easy to check inside of walls, you can inspect the attic as well as under the house or in the basement for signs of leaks, moisture buildup, mold, or rot. A moisture meter can be used to check for excessive moisture in wood while a hygrometer can determine the moisture content of the air.

Water stains on rafters are a telltale sign of leaks, either past or present. Also, be sure to examine the floor joists under the house for signs of mold. If the house is in an area prone to flooding, look in out of the way places—like closets and inside of cabinets—for stain lines on the walls or water damage on the floor.

I would definitely have a competent home inspector examine the house before you purchase it, as mold and excessive humidity can be costly to eliminate.

Check out our articles How to Prevent and Remove Mold and Attic and Basement Frequently Asked Questions for more information.

Wireless lighting systems for your home used to be considered a luxury item that could set you back thousands of dollars, but the JetStream Lighting Control System® from CentraLite contains everything you need to control up to five rooms in your house for under $700. Individual wall switches communicate with each other using radio frequency signals without the need for a central controller, making the system easy to install in existing home.

The JetStream Starter Kit comes with five dimmable wall switches and a battery powered remote control which can be used to turn lights on and off from your house or car. Four preprogrammed lighting scenes are included, but up to 100 custom scenes can be programmed using a computer and optional USB interface device. Additional switches and accessories—like an automated timer, tabletop keypad and controllers for lamps—are available as well.

Installation requires a neutral wire at wall switches, which may not be present in some older homes. The JetStream carries a five-year limited warrenty and can be expanded to control thermostats as well as security and entertainment equipment. A searchable database of dealers and installers is available on their website.

Clothes dryers are responsible for over 15,000 fires a year, resulting in more than a dozen deaths and hundreds of injuries. Many are the result of inadequate venting caused by crimps and sharp bends in the flexible vent hose. The Dryerbox® reduces these problems and allows your dryer to run more efficiently by allowing the hose to contract into a metal box recessed in the wall. While designed primarily for installation in new construction, a Retro-Fit model is also available.

My husband and I are big advocates for recycling. We fortunately have a recycle center nearby that we use. Our problem/question, How or where can we get rid of old car batteries and old paint? Our recycle center doesn’t allow them and don’t have answers. We’ve been holding on to these old items and don’t know what to do with them. Any advice? -Lori

Lori,

I’m glad to hear that you’re doing your part to help the environment. You are wise not to dispose of either car batteries or paint with your regular garbage, since both are considered hazardous waste.

Car batteries contain high amounts of lead and sulfuric acid and are usually collected for recycling when you buy a new one. In fact in some states there is an additional charge if you don’t turn in your old battery. While many municipal waste departments will accept car batteries, they can also be returned for recycling to most stores that sell them, such as car repair shops and auto parts stores.

Old paint should also be disposed of properly rather than pouring it out, which can not only clog your drain and contaminate groundwater but is illegal as well. If there is only a little left in the can, you may be able to leave the lid off until it hardens then dispose of it with your regular garbage. Check with your state environmental agency or city waste department first to see it this is an acceptable practice in your area.

If you have a larger amount of paint to dispose of, or don’t want to release volatile organic compounds (VOC) into the air, contact your local municipal waste department. Most will accept household hazardous waste, though their collection procedures may vary. Whether the used paint is actually recycled or sent it to a hazardous waste facility is up to the local waste department.

Check out our article Get Onboard the Recycle Cycle as well as the following articles:

• EPA Guide to Batteries
• EPA List of Household Hazardous Waste
• Information on Commonly Recycled Materials

Concerned about what’s in your drinking water? Well, you should be! While municipal drinking water in the U.S. is among the safest in the world, almost all of the 25 largest city water systems have reported violations of federal drinking water standards. These include samples that contained significant levels of chlorine, lead, E. coli bacteria, and other contaminants.

Think you’re better off drinking bottled water instead? Wrong again! Bottled water is even less regulated than tap water and has been found to contain a number of contaminants, including potentially harmful chemicals from the plastic bottles that can leach into the water.

Fortunately, there’s a simple solution—installing a water filter in your home. While some models may require a visit from the plumber, many are a snap to install. They’re easy to use and available to fit any budget or lifestyle. Plus, you’ll save money compared to buying bottled water.

Finding the Right Water Filter System

There are several different types of water filter systems available that vary in both cost and convenience.

Pitcher:

• Water is poured into a reservoir and drips through a filter into the pitcher.
• Simple to use, no installation required.
• Filtering is slow and limited to what the pitcher can hold, filter may clog.
• Cost: $15 - $30.

Faucet Mount:

Photo Courtesy of GE

• Filter unit replaces aerator on faucet, providing more water than pitchers.
• Easy installation – just attach to existing faucet.M.
• Allows switching from filtered water to plain tap water.
• Can get in the way when washing dishes and filter may not fit all faucets.
• Cost: $20 - $70.

Countertop:

Photo Courtesy of Aquasana

• Diverter valve replaces aerator on faucet, tube carries water to countertop filter.
• Larger filter is less likely to clog than faucet models.
• Easy installation – simply attach to faucet and place on counter.
• Takes up room on countertop, and may not fit all faucets.
• Cost: $50 - $300.

Under Sink:

Photo Courtesy of GE

• Mounts under sink and attaches to cold water pipe with separate water dispenser installed next to sink.
• Can handle large volume of water.
• Harder to install – requires moderate plumbing skills.
• No counter clutter but takes up space in cabinet.
• Requires hole in counter or sink for dispenser.
• Cost: $55 - $700.

Whole House:

Photo Courtesy of Aquasana

• Filters all the water as it comes into the house.
• Most only remove sediment and rust, though some more expensive models filter out other contaminants as well.
• Requires professional installation.
• Cost: $40 - $1000+.

Icemaker Filter:

• Attaches to water line for icemaker.
• Reduces contaminants and sediment in ice and improves taste.
• Fairly easy to install – requires some minor plumbing.
• Cost: $15 - $60.

The Filter is the Key

The most important component of any system is the filter itself. The more common types are:

• Carbon – The most commonly used filter due to its high adsorption rate and low cost. May be impregnated with silver to help kill bacteria. Reduces lead, mercury, and chlorine, along with some organic chemicals and pesticides, while improving odor and taste. Does not eliminate heavy metals, nitrates, arsenic, or many microbes.
• Ceramic – Made from fossil shell material. Unlike carbon, ceramic filters can be cleaned and reused. They are often combined with a carbon filter for more complete coverage. Remove bacteria, cysts, and asbestos, but not mercury or lead.
• Reverse Osmosis – Water is forced through a semi-permeable membrane under pressure. They are large, slow, expensive, and waste several times more water than they clean, but produce highly filtered water. Can remove most contaminants including heavy metals, nitrates, arsenic, chlorine, pesticides, and bacteria. However, they also remove minerals that may be necessary for good health.
• Water Distillation – Water is boiled and the steam is then condensed. Kills microbes and removes lead and mercury, but some chemicals may pass through. Also removes minerals that may be important for good health.
• UV Radiation – High intensity ultraviolet light kills microbes present in water, but does not eliminate most chemicals and other contaminants.

Choosing the Right Filter

• Begin by requesting a water quality report from your local water system. Known as the Consumer Confidence Report (CCR), it will list any known contaminants. You may also be able to find your report online through the Environmental Protection Agency website.

• While the report tells you what’s in your municipal water supply, the water that comes out of your tap may harbor additional contaminants, such as lead from pipes. To find out more about the water in your home, a testing kit can be purchased at most home improvement stores for under $20.

• Read the filter’s label carefully before purchasing, and match it to the results of your CCR and home test.

• Consider how much water the filter will handle. While a pitcher may be perfect for one or two people, a large family might require a system with a higher capacity.

• When comparing the price of similar systems, don’t forget to include the cost of replacing the filter. You may find that a less expensive system actually costs more in the long run.

• Finally, remember that the purpose of water filters is to trap sediment and contaminants, so be sure and change your filter regularly to prevent the growth of mold or bacteria.

Further Information:

• EPA Water Quality Information
• Green Guide to Water Filters
• Heartspring Guide to Water Filters
• Mother Earth News: “Safe Drinking Water”

Manufacturers:

• Aquasana
• Brita
• Culligan
• GE
• Kenmore
• Pur
• Whirlpool

In light of the continued drought gripping the country and the recent California wildfires, it’s more important than ever to take every precaution possible when dealing with fire. The winning entries in our Fire Safety Contest drove that point home with their cautionary tales demonstrating how easily things can go wrong. Each of our winners below will receive a Kidde Nighthawk smoke and carbon monoxide alarm, along with a second Kidde smoke alarm.

Winning Entries

“People often do not think about what could happen. While living in Alaska, my husband and I lived next to my in-laws. We go up early one morning and turned on the space heater to warm the room. We got a call from the family to come over and help with something a minute. We figured we would only be gone for a few minutes and left the space heater on. When we came back to the house about five minutes later, black smoke was pouring out the front door. No one was injured and the home was saved with only minor damage compared to what could have been, but things like pictures and a marriage quilt my husband’s great-grandmother made us was forever burned and damaged! It could happen anywhere, it could happen anytime, that’s what we learned. We also installed smoke alarms that were not in the house before the fire. It is better to be safe then sorry!”
Bobbye Fussell
West Monroe, Louisiana

“Last year in our development, 2 homeowners caused fires to their homes by removing hot embers from their wood burning stoves and depositing them outside. One left them on the deck and they burned thru the container and burned down 1/2 the house, and the other dumped them on the lawn and caught his siding on fire. Please, douse embers with water before leaving them unattended.”
Ann Babenco
High Bridge, New Jersey

Be sure to enter our December Ask Danny Video Contest so you can be our next winner.

Mold is all around us and in every breath we take. It plays an important role in the natural process of decay and is used to make everything from cheese to penicillin. If allowed to grow unchecked inside your home, however, mold can result in damage to both the structure and your health.

Health Effects

Exposure to most mold usually only causes minor allergic reactions—such as sniffling, watery eyes, and sneezing—that subside a few hours after leaving the infected area. Some people are more sensitive than others and may experience a stronger reaction that can include difficulty breathing and asthma attacks.

Several types of mold release toxic substances called mycotoxins. Exposure to high concentrations of mycotoxins from Stachybotrys (a greenish-black green mold that grows on cellulose material such as wallpaper, cardboard, and wallboard) or Chaetomium (a white to gray colored mold found on decaying wood and water damaged drywall) may lead to more severe health issues including chronic bronchitis, heart problems, and bleeding lungs. There is still an ongoing debate in the scientific and medical community about the health effects of this so called “toxic” mold.

Where to Find Mold

Mold feeds off organic matter and requires a moist environment to grow. Typical areas where mold can accumulate in the home include:

• Bathrooms, kitchens, and laundry rooms.
• Basements and crawl spaces under house.
• Heating and air conditioning systems.
• Pipes and ductwork.
• Around windows.
• In attics due to leaking roofs.

Cleaning Up Mold

If the mold is limited to an area of less than 10 square feet, then you might be able to clean it up yourself. Areas larger than that should be handled by a professional.

If you decide to enlist a professional, make sure they are trained and experienced in mold cleanup. It is also a good idea to request and check references from past jobs to determine the quality of their work.

Removing mold yourself:

• Wear rubber gloves that go mid-way up your forearm. Household rubber gloves are fine for detergent use while neoprene rubber gloves are best for stronger cleaners.
• Use an N-95 respirator, which is available at most hardware stores.
• Wear eye protection, preferably goggles without ventilation holes.
• For mild cases, scrub with warm water and detergent.
• For more severe problems, use a solution of one cup bleach to a gallon of water. Never mix bleach with cleaning products containing ammonia as it can cause the release of toxic gas.
• Dry the area thoroughly. Remember, moisture is mold’s best friend.
• When done scrubbing the area, there should be no visible mold or moldy smell.
• Make sure the area is completely clean and dry before painting or caulking.

If you suspect mold in porous surfaces or carpets, it is best to throw them out. It is virtually impossible to get mold out of these materials.

Prevention

Since mold loves moisture, it’s important to remove the source of water to prevent it from returning.

Potential problem areas to address to keep mold at bay include:

• Check attic for roof leaks, and repair any that are found.
• Weather strip and caulk leaky windows.
• Install insulated glass or storm windows to prevent condensation problems.
• Examine pipes for leaks and insulate if needed.
• Keep gutters and downspouts clean.
• Channel water from downspouts away from house.
• Examine basement for leaks and repair if necessary.
• Check crawl space for excess moisture, and apply black plastic to ground to reduce humidity.
• Be sure HVAC units drain properly and that drains are not clogged.
• Inspect HVAC ducts for excess moisture. Repair or replace the insulation around them if wet.
• Use a high quality air filter with HVAC units, and change it regularly.
• Install bathroom fans that are vented to the outside. Run them during—and for 15 minutes after—showers.
• Open doors and windows during dry weather to increase air circulation.
• Keep the humidity in your home between 30 and 50 percent. Check it with a humidity gauge or moisture meter and use a dehumidifier to lower it if necessary.
• Make sure gas and kerosene heaters and fireplaces are properly vented to the outside to reduce the amount of moisture in the air.

When replacing your central air conditioning unit, be sure it is sized properly for the house and climate. While an oversized unit will cool the house down faster, it won’t remove as much moisture from the air. You might also consider adding a dehumidifier to the central system if you live in a climate with high humidity or use a portable model for problem areas.

Hidden Problems

If your home still smells moldy or members of your family are having health issues, there could be a hidden mold problem. Mold can grow unseen under wallpaper, dry wall, ceiling tiles, and in heating and air conditioner vents. If hidden mold is suspected, have the house inspected by a professional. If you think there might be mold in your HVAC system, do not run the unit until the problem has been solved.

Though mold will always be with us, a little diligence on your part can help keep it in check. Prevention and early detection are important, so catch it early and you’ll breathe easier.

Related Links

• EPA Guide to Mold
• Mold Help
• American Environmental Health Foundation
• CDC Guide to Dealing with Mold after a Disaster

Each year there are over 1.5 million fires in the United States resulting in $10 billion in damages, more than 3,000 deaths, and 16,000 injuries. While residential fires account for only a fourth of the total number, they’re responsible for 80% of all deaths and injuries. In addition, hundreds of deaths in the home are caused by carbon monoxide poisoning every year. Though cooking is the main cause of house fires overall, problems with heating equipment—from furnaces to fireplaces to space heaters—surpass it in the winter.

Since half of all fire related fatalities occur during the winter months, we’re asking you to help make this year safer by sharing your close encounter with fire and what could have been done to prevent it. The two entries with the most compelling story and helpful prevention tip will receive a Kidde Nighthawk smoke and carbon monoxide alarm along with a second Kidde smoke alarm.

All entries must be received before December 1, 2007, to be eligible to win. See contest rules for details.

The Formosan subterranean termite (Coptotermes formosanus) strikes fear in the hearts of homeowners, particularly residents of Hawaii and the southern United States. According to a report by the Department of Agriculture, it is one of the most destructive pests in the country. Each year over $1 billion is spent in the U.S. for preventative and remedial treatment and to repair damage caused by Formosan termites.

Despite persistent myths to the contrary, Formosan termites can’t chew through concrete and aren’t able to leap tall buildings in a single bound. Even so, they’re often referred to as “super-termites” because they’re aggressive, able to build nests above ground, and form extremely large colonies. While native termite colonies often number in the hundreds of thousands, Formosan colonies include millions of individuals. One Formosan queen can live as long as 20 years and lay as many as 2,000 eggs a day.

Distribution

Formosan termites are native to China and migrated to North America on military transports returning from World War II. They are now found in at least 11 states, including Alabama, California, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Louisiana, Mississippi, North Carolina, South Carolina, Tennessee, and Texas. Formosan termites are rarely found further north than 35° N latitude because their eggs can’t hatch below 68°F.

Prevention

The best way to prevent an infestation of Formosan termites is to make your home uninviting by cutting off their access to food and water. To accomplish this goal:

• Remove dead trees as well as scrap wood, paper, and cardboard from your yard.
• Prevent wood from coming into direct contact with bare ground around your home.
• Use pressure-treated wood for structures at or near ground level.
• Anchor wooden posts for fences, decks, porches, and sheds in cement.
• Eliminate wooden planters, tubs, trellises, and stakes.
• Keep plants and landscaping materials at least a foot away from buildings.
• Avoid using wood chips for mulch close to the house.
• Install and maintain rain gutters to direct water away from the walls and roof of the house.
• Add downspout extenders to deliver runoff at least a foot away from the foundation.
• Repair leaks in outdoor faucets, indoor fixtures, water lines, drains, and appliances immediately.

Detection

Early detection leads to early treatment, which is critical. Entomologists at the University of Hawaii have found that a colony of Formosan termites can do significant structural damage in as little as six months. If you live in or near affected areas, inspect your home and property at least once a year for the following signs:

• Shelter Tubes: Formosan termites don’t like to be exposed, so they build shelter tubes to travel between their nest and sources of food and water. Check the foundation, as well as any wood near the ground, for signs of tubes.
• Water Source: Examine areas surrounding outside faucets and water lines. Inside, inspect areas where moisture is found, such as kitchens, bathrooms, and laundry rooms.
• Damage: Look for pinholes in drywall and evidence of damage to wood in any location, even the tack strips under carpeting.
• Nests: Formosan termites build large nests made of a rock-like mass. Most of these nests are built below ground, but not all nests have contact with soil. Probe any suspect areas with an awl or screwdriver, and check any wood that feels soft or hollow. Look for bulges or depressions, discolorations, and spongy wood. Check cracks in stucco or plaster, and knots in trees.

Identification

Should you discover an active colony of termites, try to gather several different looking specimens from the nest, since some members of the colony are easier to identify than others.

Another approach is to collect them when they swarm, which takes place at night from April through July. Like most insects, Formosan termites are attracted to light. To collect samples for identification, mix a little dishwashing soap in a container of water. Place it near a light source, and turn off all other lights in the area.

Put any suspect insects you find in small bottles filled with rubbing alcohol and take them to a trusted exterminator, county extension office, or university entomology department for identification.

Extermination

If the samples you collect are identified as Formosan termites, it’s time to call an exterminator, since eradication is best left to professionals. Before selecting a pest control company, get at least three bids and make sure the exterminator you choose has plenty of experience in dealing with Formosan termites.

There are two basic types of control available: soil termiticides and bait. A reliable exterminator should consult you and discuss all the options before making a decision about treatment.

For additional information on formosan termites visit:

• USDA Agricultural Research Service
• University of Florida: Formosan Subterranean Termite
• LSU Agricultural Center

From hurricanes and floods to tornadoes and fires, natural disasters are a homeowner’s worst nightmare. While August through October are the peak months of hurricane season, being prepared for a natural disaster isn’t just confined to a few months out of the year or those living along the coast. Here are a few basic steps you can take now to prepare for the worst.

Basic Preparations

• Food and Water: Stockpile drinking water and nonperishable food. Choose products that can be eaten without cooking, and rotate the food items in your pantry to keep them fresh. Be sure to keep a manual can opener on hand and stock up on pet food as well. When a hurricane is heading your way, line bathtubs with plastic and fill them with water. After the storm passes, eat perishable food first.
• Fuel: Following a natural disaster, the gas grill might be the only method of cooking available, so be sure the propane tank is full and keep a spare on hand. If a hurricane is approaching, don’t wait until the last minute to top off the gas tank in your car and fill several approved gas cans as well. Be sure not to store gasoline in your home or near an ignition source such as a gas hot water heater.
• Lighting: It’s always darkest after the storm, so be sure you have several flashlights and plenty of batteries. While propane camping lanterns should not be used indoors, portable lamps that run on batteries are available in incandescent and fluorescent versions. Do to the increased risk of fire, avoid the use of candles. If you must use them, don’t leave candles unattended and keep a fire extinguisher nearby.
• Information: In the aftermath of a natural disaster, a battery powered weather radio and AM/FM radio are your lifelines to the outside world. Battery powered portable television sets can be useful as well.
• Communication: Charge up cell phones and keep a portable charger on hand that works in your car. Also, be sure you have a telephone that does not require electricity to operate.
• Medical Supplies: Fill prescriptions in advance and keep a first aid kit handy. Don’t forget to stock up on supplies like toilet paper, hand sanitizer, and disposable diapers.
• Money: When the power is off after a natural disaster, cash is often the only medium of exchange. Keep some smaller bills and coins as well, since change could be hard to come by.
• Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Detectors: Be sure to have battery operated models on hand that will work when the electricity is out.
• Tarps and Tape: Stock up on tarps, rolls of plastic, rope, and duct tape to use for emergency repairs after the storm.
• Tools: Charge up cordless tools and make sure you have adequate hand tools to use while the power is out. While a gas powered chain saw can be your best friend after the storm, it can also result in serious injuries at a time when emergency help might not be able to reach you.
• Generators: Though worth their weight in gold after a storm, carbon monoxide poisoning from generators caused over 60 deaths in 2005 with several more fatalities resulting from electrocution and fire. Generators should only be operated in the open and at a safe distance from the home. They should not be used in an enclosed storage building, garage, carport, basement, crawlspace, or near open windows or doors. Extension cords should be adequate to handle the load, and don’t try to draw more power than the generator is rated to supply. Be sure to turn a generator off and allow it to cool before filling it with gas.

Getting Ready

While many natural disasters strike without warning, those in the path of a hurricane often have time to prepare. Here are some things to consider:

• Yard: Bring any lawn furniture, grills, bikes, toys, garbage cans, potted plants, and other loose items inside or store them in a garage or storage shed.
• Windows: Remove screens from windows. If available, screw 5/8-inch thick exterior plywood over them.
• Trees: Trim overhanging limbs away from the house.
• Boats: Take tarps off of boats. Remove any loose items and tie down securely.
• Cars: Park cars away from trees and power lines.
• Utilities: Locate cut-offs for gas, electricity, and water. Have adequate tools on hand to turn them off if necessary.

Evacuation

Most deaths during hurricanes are caused by rising water from rainfall which can occur far inland from the coast. If you live in an area prone to flooding, be prepared to evacuate well before the storm arrives. Store the following information and documents in a plastic bag or waterproof container to take with you when you leave:

• Insurance Policies: Car, homeowner’s, boat, and life insurance policies.
• Financial Records: Statements from checking and savings accounts, stocks and bonds, loans and retirement plans. Don’t forget your checkbook and keys to safe deposit boxes along with ATM and credit cards.
• Medical Records: Include allergies to medications and medical histories for each member of the family.
• Personal Identification: Birth certificates, Social Security cards, computer passwords, and contact information of friends and relatives.
• Household Inventory: A recent list of your home’s contents, along with photographs, will prove invaluable when dealing with the insurance company. A DVD or videotape of your home and possessions is also helpful. (See Documenting Your Valuables)

The only thing worse than having your sensitive personal information destroyed in a storm is for it to be lost or fall into the wrong hands, so guard it carefully on the road and in shelters.

Other important items to take with you are sleeping bags, blankets, pillows, extra clothes, and a carrying cage and leash for pets. If you have extra room, consider including irreplaceable items like family photo albums and scrapbooks.

Living thorough a natural disaster can be a traumatic experience even under the best of circumstances. By being prepared in advance, you can make life after the storm a little easier and relieve some of the stress associated with dealing with Mother Nature’s wrath.

Additional information is available from the National Hurricane Center.