Building steps used to require complicated measurements and difficult angled cuts, but the precut pressure treated stringers available at home centers today have made the job much easier.

Allow for a stringer at each end of the steps and at 16” intervals in between. Use corrosion resistant screws and nails to assemble the steps.

Start by measuring the width of the opening, then cut a treated 2”x4” to length to attach to the side of the house as an anchor for the stringers. Remember to take 3” off the length of the anchor board to allow for the thickness of the end stringers.

Position the anchor board on the house, taking into account the thickness of the top tread. Screw the board in place, making sure it’s level with the house. When attaching to brick, drill pilot holes with masonry bit for anchors or masonry screws.

Place the outside stringers against the house flush with the top of the anchor board, checking to be sure they’re level and square, and nail them to the ends of the anchor board.

Cut 1½” off the end of each of the inside stringers to allow for the thickness of the anchor board.

Toenail the inside stringers to the anchor board flush with the top.

Attach a treated 1”x 8” riser to the bottom of the steps to tie the stringers together.

Cut the 5/4” x 6” pressure treated treads to length, allowing for the overhang on each end, and nail them in place. Using two treads on each step minimizes the cracking and cupping that might occur with a single wide board.

Rip 1”x8” risers to width and cut to length flush with the outside of the stringers. Nail the risers to the stringers to complete the steps.

Power tools used on Today’s Homeowner with Danny Lipford® are provided by Ryobi.

Hi Steve,

Start by insulating the space between the basement ceiling joists with a sound dampening insulation like Owens Corning QuietZone fiberglass insulation. Next, you might want to consider using a soundproofing drywall such as QuietRock for the ceiling. You can watch and read more about QuietRock, on our website at (622) Builders’ Show Special.

Good luck with your project,

An easy way to drill a hole to a set depth is to simply wrap a piece of making tape around the drill bit and stick the two ends together to form a “flag” on one side of the bit.

Stop drilling when the tape brushes away the shaving, indicating that the desired depth has been reached.

Since the tape will tend to wear out after a few holes, a more permanent solution is to drill a hole lengthwise through a piece of 1” x 1” stock and slide it over the drill bit to act as a stop.

Adjust the bit in the chuck so it protrudes the desired length from the end of the block, then hold the block firmly on the surface and push the drill through it into the wood until the bit bottoms out.

I put polyurethane on cabinets after I stained them. Now a week later, I find oil on the surface of the cabinets, and when I try to clean it, it leaves dull spots. I don’t know what to do, or what is the problem. H-E-E-E-E-L-P!!! - Thomas

Thomas,

Polyurethane finishes should dry hard in a matter of hours and not bleed oil as yours is doing. Here are some possible reasons for the problem:

• Using an old or partially used can of finish.
• Using a can of finish that has been subjected to extreme temperatures.
• Not stirring the finish thoroughly before application.
• Applying the finish outside the recommended temperature and humidity range.
• Applying over an oily surface, or over certain exotic woods—like rosewood, teak, ebony, and cocobolo—that contain natural oils.

If you have followed these guidelines, the problem may be with the finish itself.

As far as solving your problem goes, if the finish has stopped bleeding oil and feels like it has dried hard, you might be able to even out the gloss by wiping the cabinets down with a rag dampened with mineral spirits (assuming it was oil-based polyurethane) followed by a dry cloth. Be sure to extinguish any pilot lights and open flames and use adequate ventilation when working indoors with mineral spirits.

If the gloss is still uneven, try sanding it lightly with 220 grit sandpaper and applying another coat of finish. Use a fresh can of the same finish from a different store in case the batch in question was bad. If you continue to have problems, the only alternative might be to strip the cabinets and start all over again.

Good luck,

The popularity of Home Theater Systems (HTS) has taken off in recent years as prices have fallen. These days you don’t have to take out a second mortgage to enjoy remarkable sound and video quality in the comfort of your own home.

System Components

Whether it all comes in one box, or you mix and match individual components, the basic home theater system consists of:

• Television set
• DVD player
• DVR (digital video recorder) or VCR
• Surround Sound Receiver
• Speakers
• Cables and Connectors
• Surge Protector

Home Theater Considerations

The best advice when purchasing a home theater system is to let your eyes and ears be the guide, relying less on marketing hype and more on what looks and sounds good to you. Also remember to take into consideration:

• Room size: Fit television and speakers to the size of the room.
• Seating: Consider the angle and distance from the screen and speakers.
• Acoustics: Determined by the room’s shape, materials, and furnishings.
• Lighting: Take windows and room lights into account when positioning TV.
• Ventilation: Assure adequate cooling for both components and audience.

Speaker Wire

When it comes to speaker wire, the thickness or “gauge” matters. The general rule for optimal sound quality is:

Cables and Connectors

The quality of the connectors and cables that tie all the components together can make a big difference in the picture and sound. While you don’t have to spring for top-of-the-line gold plated connectors, avoid the least expensive ones.

Good:

• Composite Video Connector: Carries the video signal to the TV with standard stereo (RCA) cables used for audio. The color and sound produced is good but not as high quality as other connections.

• 

  RF Coax Cable: Same as that used to connect cable television. The cable carries both audio and video signals. Can be push-on or screw-on types.

Better:

• 

  S-Video Connector: The connector has four pins that separate the video signal into separate channels to provide high quality.

• Component Video Connectors: Like s-video, component connectors separate the video signal into different channels but provide even better quality. Separate RCA style plugs are used for each channel.

Best:

• 

  High Definition Multimedia Interface: (HDMI) Produces the best picture and sound quality. The signal carried is completely digital and requires an HD compatible television.

• 

  Fiber Optic Audio Cable: (TOSLINK) Uses a light beam in a plastic fiber optic cable to connect the audio source with the receiver.

Making Connections

Although all systems are different, it helps if you think of cables as paths leading from one component to another. Your goal is to get the audio or video signal out of one device (output) and send it into another one (input.) For example, the video signal has to travel from the output jack on the DVD player to the input on the TV.

In addition to connecting the video and audio components to each other, the speakers have to be connected to the receiver using speaker wire. Slide the wire in the retainer and close it, making sure to keep the polarity the same at both receiver and speaker.

Speaker Placement

The three basic HTS speaker configurations available today are 5.1, 6.1, and 7.1. The first number tells how many full range speakers the system has while the second number indicates the subwoofer for low frequencies. The 5.1 system, with five main speakers and one subwoofer, was the first introduced and remains the most popular.

Speaker placement is the single most important factor in a home theater experience. Here are some general guidelines for setting up each system:

5.1 System: Position the side surround sound speakers even with or slightly behind the seating area and the two front speakers on either side of the TV at about a 30 degree angle to the seating area. The center speaker goes on top of or below the television while the subwoofer sits on the floor to one side.

6.1 System: Speakers are positioned the same as 5.1 with the addition of a rear speaker placed directly behind the seating area.

7.1 System: The setup is the same as 5.1 except there are two additional rear speakers placed at an angle behind the audience

Hiding the Wires

We’ve all done it—poked holes in walls and floors and stapled wires around doorways—but there are better ways to hide speaker wires:

• Wireless Speakers: The easiest method – no wires! But wireless means the possibility of interference and degraded audio quality. They can be either battery operated, powered by AC, or both.
• Channeling: Wires are routed though a hollow plastic tube, known as a raceway, that has adhesive backing so that it can be attached to the baseboard. Channels come in a variety of colors and can be painted to match. Snap on connectors and elbows make it easy to run channeling along walls and around corners.
• Flat Wire: Flat wire is just as the name implies. It can be easily run under carpets without creating a bulge. Some have adhesive backing to hold it in place and can be painted.
• Fish Tape: A special type of wire that is very stiff, perfect for “fishing” through walls or under carpets.

The Final Word

A rainbow of colors, and a tangle of wires. While it looks intimidating, it’s not if you understand the basic principles involved and take the time to plan out the installation. While most systems today have color coded cables, they can still be confusing, so the best thing to do is READ THE MANUAL. Done right, you’ll end up with a home theater system that will literally knock your socks off!

Home Theater Info

• Dolby
• Audioholics
• Home Theater Info
• RAM Electronics

Home Theater Manufacturers

• Harman Kardon
• JVC
• LG
• Onkyo
• Panasonic
• Sony
• Yamaha

Whether you’re putting in all new appliances or simply replacing a worn-out machine, installing a dishwasher yourself is a DIY project that’s not that difficult and can save you a hefty installation fee.

Preparations for Dishwasher Installation

The first step is making sure the machine will fit in the opening. Most standard dishwashers require a 24” opening. If you’re installing new cabinets, it’s important to consider the width of the dishwasher ahead of time. The height of most machines is adjustable.

Depending on your cabinet configuration, you may need to drill one or more holes to run supply lines, electrical wiring, and the drainpipe through. Hole saws make quick work of drilling larger diameter holes.

Remove the faceplate at the base of the machine to access the supply line inlet and electrical box. It’s a good idea to connect the wiring, drain, and supply lines before pushing the dishwasher into the cabinet, since it makes it easier to access the underside of the machine.

Connecting the Drainpipe

Start by connecting the drainpipe to the discharge pump. Many local building codes require dishwashers to be vented using an air gap to prevent the siphoning of water from the sink drain or disposal. Mount the air gap in one of the sink holes or drill a hole for it in the countertop. Connect the drainpipes to the air gap and secure them with hose or spring clamps.

If an air gap is not required, loop the drain hose up near the top of the base cabinet, and attach it to the wall with a strap to prevent backflow from the sink.

Run the drainpipe to the inlet of the garbage disposal and secure it with a clamp. Many garbage disposals have a plug in the inlet, so be sure to remove it first.

If there isn’t a garbage disposal or an existing drain for the dishwasher, replace the drainpipe under the sink with a dishwasher branch tailpiece.

Connecting the Supply Lines

Most dishwasher supply lines are 3/8” diameter, but check to make sure you’ve got the right parts before starting the job. Begin by turning off the water and installing a dual outlet shut-off valve to connect the dishwasher supply line to the hot water pipe under the sink. One outlet on the valve provides hot water for the sink faucet while the other attaches to the dishwasher supply line. This will allow you to turn the water off to the dishwasher separately from the faucet.

Connect one end of the supply line to the shut-off valve and the other end to the water inlet on the underside of the dishwasher using a right angle elbow.

Where needed, apply Teflon tape to the male threads to prevent leaks. Supply lines should be hand tightened then given a solid quarter turn with a wrench.

Connecting the Electrical Supply

Always be sure to cut off the power to the dishwasher by flipping the circuit breaker before attempting to connect the electrical supply. Run the cable through the back of the electrical box on the dishwasher, and connect the hot (usually black) and neutral (white) wires to the corresponding wires in the box using wire nuts. Be sure to connect the ground wire to the green screw and replace the cover on the box.

Turn the water back on and check for leaks, then turn on the power and run the dishwasher through a full cycle. If everything works properly, slide the machine into the cabinet, being careful not to crimp or pinch the pipes. Plumb and level it by raising and lowering the adjustable feet on either side.

Screw the dishwasher to the underside of the countertop to hold it in place. When attaching the mounting screws to the plywood used to support a stone countertop, be sure the screws do not protrude into the stone.

Attach the faceplate to the base, and your new dishwasher is ready to go!

Helpful Tips

• Examine the dishwasher before bringing it home. Look for scratches or dents and make sure the necessary hardware is included.
• Check the size of all supply lines and connecters before installing a new machine.
• Make sure to close all shut-off valves and turn off the circuit breaker before disconnecting an old dishwasher.
• When disconnecting an existing machine, be prepared with towels and a shallow pan to drain any excess water remaining in the lines.

Hi Donna,

Yes, you can lay a wood floor over tile if the existing floor is in good shape and without cracks. I would suggest 3/8” thick, prefinished engineered hardwood flooring. You can install it either as a floating floor that locks together and is not attached to the tile, or glue it down. Check to be sure the existing floor is flat first and fill in any low spots with leveling compound. If the floor is being glued to a slick surface, rough the tiles up a bit by sanding them to allow the adhesive to adhere better.

Good luck with your project,

Raul,

There are a number of possibilities that could be causing your problem including a leaky roof, plumbing leaks, excessive moisture in the crawl space, a slab that wasn’t waterproofed correctly, condensation in the walls due to an improperly installed vapor barrier, or damage from flooding.

While it’s not easy to check inside of walls, you can inspect the attic as well as under the house or in the basement for signs of leaks, moisture buildup, mold, or rot. A moisture meter can be used to check for excessive moisture in wood while a hygrometer can determine the moisture content of the air.

Water stains on rafters are a telltale sign of leaks, either past or present. Also, be sure to examine the floor joists under the house for signs of mold. If the house is in an area prone to flooding, look in out of the way places—like closets and inside of cabinets—for stain lines on the walls or water damage on the floor.

I would definitely have a competent home inspector examine the house before you purchase it, as mold and excessive humidity can be costly to eliminate.

Check out our articles How to Prevent and Remove Mold and Attic and Basement Frequently Asked Questions for more information.

This small room is perfect for a piece of low pile commercial carpet we picked up for $100. Start by aligning the factory cut edges of the carpet against two of the adjoining walls in the room.

Press the carpet firmly against the remaining walls with a 6” drywall knife, then cut through it using a sharp utility knife.

The drywall knife holds the carpet in place and acts as a guide for the cuts.

After the carpet has been cut to fit, fold it back and spread adhesive around the perimeter of the room with a notched trowel.

Carefully position the carpet on the floor, and use the drywall knife to press it into the glue.

While phone lines are low in voltage, they carry enough current when they ring to give a mild shock, so it’s a good idea to disconnect the line before working on it. Also, never work on a phone line during a thunderstorm, since lightning can travel down the wire causing serious injury.

To disconnect the line, find the telephone interface box which is usually mounted on an outside wall where the phone lines runs into your house.

Open the customer access panel and unplug the test jack.

On older interface boxes without a test jack, unscrew the terminals and detach the wires, remembering which one went on which terminal.

If the interface box isn’t easily accessible, take another phone on the same line off the hook to prevent it from ringing while working on it.

After checking to be sure the line you’re working on has no dial tone, unplug the phone from the jack. Remove the jack from the wall, noting which colored wires are hooked up to the terminals so you can match them to the new one.

While only two wires are required for a phone to work, the cable usually contains four or more to provide for additional lines or in case one line should fail. These are color coded with red and green normally used for the first line, yellow and black for the second, and blue and white for the third.

After removing the wires from the old jack, attach them to the new one. If the stripped ends of the wires appear discolored or brittle, cut off the damaged section and strip the outer insulation around the line back a couple of inches, being careful not to nick the wires.

Using a utility knife, cut back ½” to ¾” of the insulation around each wire.

Bend the exposed end of the wire into a “U” shape with needle nosed pliers.

Slip the wire over the corresponding terminal on the new jack so it wraps around the terminal in a clockwise direction.

After tightening the terminal screws, attach the jack to the wall, reconnect the line at the interface box, and plug the phone back in.

For more safety information regarding working on phone lines, go to our article Replacing a Telephone Jack.