It can be frustrating to run out of caulking when you’re almost through with the job. What you may not realize is that there’s usually a little more caulking left in the tube that the plunger on the caulking gun can’t quite push out.

To squeeze out that last little bit, cut a 2” long dowel or block of wood that will slide inside the tube.

Take the caulking tube out of the gun and insert the dowel in the tube.

Put the tube back on the caulking gun and snug the plunger up against the dowel.

The wood acts to extend the plunger, forcing out just enough caulking to finish the job.

Cedric,

Unless the surface is unfinished or you’re switching between types of paint—such as oil based woodwork being covered by latex paint—you don’t have to prime before painting again. If the surface is dirty or greasy, clean it thoroughly before painting. If it is glossy, it’s a good idea to dull it first with sandpaper or a liquid deglosser.

For more information on priming, see our article A Homeowner’s Guide to Paint Primer.

Judy,

Large knots, like those found in knotty pine, can pose a problem when painting, since the resin in them has a tendency to bleed back through the finished surface. To prevent this, spot prime any knots first with an oil based or pigmented shellac primer that is designed to prevent bleeding. If there are a lot of knots, prime the entire surface to give it a more even texture. If the boards have been varnished, lightly sand them and wipe off any dust before priming so the primer will adhere well. More information on primers is available on our website at A Homeowner’s Guide to Paint Primer.

Good luck with your project,

I patched a big hole in my wall with drywall and put spackling over the drywall. Was this wrong? -Yolunda

Yolunda,

While similar in nature, spackling is usually used to fill nail holes and other minor imperfections while joint compound is the best choice for finishing drywall. Spackling is thicker and shrinks less than joint compound, but joint compound goes on smoother and is easier to sand. Both spackling and joint compound should only be applied in thin layers and allowed to dry thoroughly between coats.

Once you’ve cut the drywall patch and nailed or screwed it in place, rough up the painted surface around it with sandpaper and wipe off any dust with a damp sponge. Next, apply either mesh or paper drywall tape over the joints where the two pieces meet to reinforce the seams and keep them from cracking.

Fiberglass mesh tape is easier to use since it has an adhesive on one side which is applied directly to the surface of the drywall. It is then covered by several coats of joint compound and sanded smooth. When using paper tape, apply a thin layer of joint compound to the seam first then press the tape into the compound with a drywall taping knife. After it has dried, apply additional coats of joint compound and sand the wall smooth.

Whether it’s sealing around the tub, keeping a winter chill at bay, or hiding unsightly cracks in crown molding, caulking plays an important and often overlooked role in your home. Used to bridge gaps where materials meet, caulking performs the essential function of keeping water and outside air where they belong, which can prevent mold and rot from forming in your walls and save money on energy bills. In addition, caulking can make your house look better and paint jobs last longer. While today’s high-tech caulk is very durable, it won’t last forever. When it begins to fail, repair the joint as soon as possible to prevent damage to your home.

Caulking Considerations

When choosing caulk for a particular job, take into account:

• Materials – Some caulks adhere better to certain materials than others.
• Moisture – In areas that stay wet, such as around a tub or sink, use a caulk that is highly resistant to both water and mildew.
• Temperature – Some caulks can only be applied in warm weather while others aren’t designed to handle extreme changes in temperature.
• Location – When caulking outdoors, choose one that will hold up to the elements and is flexible enough to withstand movement in the joint.
• Paintable – While most caulks can be painted over after they have cured, others cannot.
• Application – Some caulks are easy to apply and can be cleaned up with water while others are messy and require solvents. Several caulks have a strong odor while curing and a few even release noxious fumes.

Types of Caulk

While there are many specialized caulks on the market, the most common ones used by homeowners are:

• Acrylic Latex – Good for general applications such as sealing around windows, doors, and moldings. May be used both inside and out as long as the temperature is 40ºF or higher while curing. Can be painted and also comes in colors. Water and mildew resistant but needs to dry thoroughly before getting wet. Not as flexible as silicone or butyl rubber, but easier to apply and cleans up with soap and water.
• Butyl Rubber – Forms a highly water resistant sealant and is excellent for caulking concrete, brick, or metal surfaces. Can be painted when completely cured. Remains flexible and is a good choice for joints that expand and contract, like gutters and roof flashing. Messy to use and requires solvent for cleanup.
• Silicone – Best for sealing glass, metal, ceramic tile, and other non-porous surfaces. Doesn’t adhere well to porous materials like wood and masonry. While most brands cannot be painted, it’s available in clear and several colors. Remains flexible after drying. Since nothing sticks to cured silicone—including more silicone—it is hard to repair and leaves a film behind that is difficult to remove. Can be applied at almost any temperature. Emits a sharp odor when curing and requires solvent for cleanup.
• Kitchen and Bath – Specifically designed for areas subject to high moisture like around sinks and tubs. Comes in a variety of colors that resist mold and mildew growth. Allow to dry thoroughly before getting wet. Cleans up with soap and water.

Application Tools

Though most caulk is sold in tubes that require a caulking gun, it’s also available in handy squeeze tubes for smaller projects and pressurized cans which can be used for large gaps such as around door frames and windows.

Caulking guns consist of a cradle that holds the tube, a plunger to push the caulk out, and a trigger to control the flow. They range in price from under $2 for bottom of the line models to over $200 for battery powered ones that work at the push of a button. Those in the $10 to $20 price range feature notable improvements such as:

• Dripless – The flow stops when the trigger is released without having to manually disengage the plunger.
• Cutter – Used to trim the tube nozzle to size.
• Seal Punch – Punctures the aluminum seal in caulking tubes.
• High Ratio – More thrust in the plunger results in less hand fatigue.

Applying Caulk

Be sure to use only fresh caulk. When in doubt squeeze a little out and let it dry overnight to see if it hardens properly. Caulking is an acquired skill that takes a bit of practice to master, so practice on scrap until you get the hang of it.

Start by cutting the nozzle at a 45 degree angle equal in width to the gap you plan to fill. Cutting too wide a hole not only wastes caulk but makes the bead more noticeable and harder to smooth out.

Puncture the seal on the tube using the punch on the caulking gun or a nail.

Place the tube in the gun and push the plunger up snug. Squeeze the trigger until caulk starts to come out of the nozzle. Put the nozzle in the gap and pull the gun slowly toward you at a 45 degree angle while pushing the trigger. The bead should contact both sides of the joint and fill the gap.

Use a clean wet finger, damp rag, or special caulk smoothing tool to even out the bead before it skims over.

Wear disposable gloves to keep your hands clean when using silicone and other solvent based caulks.

To make a straight line, use strips of painter’s tape on each side of the gap. After applying the caulk and smoothing it out, peel off the tape.

More Information:

• U.S. Department of Energy Caulking Guide

Related Articles

• How To Caulk Effectively
• Caulk Saving Trick (video)
• Caulking a Tub

Primers are specially formulated paint products that are used to prepare surfaces for the finish coat of paint. Their most important job is to adhere to the substrate while creating a uniform surface that is ready to receive paint. Primers also act to seal pores in wood and other permeable materials as well as to prevent stains, knots, and wood tannins from bleeding through. When properly applied, primers can make your paint job last longer and look better.

When to Prime

Every unfinished surface—including wood, drywall, metal, and concrete—should be primed before painting. While it can be tempting to skip this step, the results are almost always disappointing. Paint applied to unprimed surfaces tends to peel, crack, and chalk more than paint applied to properly primed surfaces.

Previously painted surfaces rarely require priming unless you are switching between types of paint or the existing paint is failing. Always scrape and sand any deteriorating surfaces before applying primer. Remember, your paint job is no better than the preparation that goes into it.

At first glance applying primer may seem like an unnecessary expense, but it actually saves money as well as time. A good coat of primer improves paint’s hide, or ability to cover, reducing the number of coats that are necessary to achieve a smooth finish. Primers can be tinted to match the paint color. Tinting improves the primer’s hide and smoothes the transition between primer and topcoat.

Types of Primers

Primers are available in oil, shellac, or latex-based formulas. Each type has differing properties and uses a different solvent for thinning and cleanup. Choosing which type to use is largely a matter of matching the primer’s characteristics to the project at hand.

Oil Primers

These slow drying primers release volatile organic compounds in the air and require mineral spirits for cleanup and thinning. They produce a very smooth finish that does the best job of filling pores in bare wood while not raising the grain. Oil primers also provide a good barrier to keep tannins from certain woods from bleeding through.

Oil primers are good to use for:

• Unfinished wood.
• Previously varnished wood.
• Redwood, cedar, or other woods that tend to bleed tannins.
• Heavily weathered wood.
• Over existing paint that is failing due to chalking or cracking.

Latex primers

These fast drying, water-soluble primers have come along way in recent years and are now available in low and no-VOC formulas. Latex primers are not as brittle as their oil or shellac-based cousins and provide a more flexible finish that is resistant to cracking. This makes them suitable for priming bare softwoods, though test them first to see if they raise the grain or allow resin to bleed through. Latex primers are the best choice for unfinished drywall, since they act to even out the texture and sheen between the wallboard and joint compound. They also allow water vapor to pass through, which can make them less likely to peel.

Use latex primers on:

• Unfinished drywall.
• Bare softwoods like pine.
• Masonry such as brick or concrete block.
• Galvanized metal, after proper cleaning.

While it used to be necessary to apply oil-based primers over oil-based paint and latex primers over latex paints, many primers today allow you to switch between them as long as you prepare the surface properly. Using oil-based paint over latex rarely requires special preparation, but changing from oil-based to latex paint typically involves sanding or deglossing the surface first.

If you’re not sure whether the existing paint is oil-based or latex, wipe a small area with a clean rag saturated with denatured alcohol, paint deglosser, or non-acetone fingernail polish remover. If the paint is oil-based, it won’t be affected. If it’s latex, some paint will come off on the rag or the surface will become tacky.

Pigmented Shellac Primers

Shellac-based primers are fast drying and use denatured alcohol for thinning and cleanup. Though smelly and difficult to use, they are excellent at blocking stains and preventing bleed through.

Shellac primers should be used to prime or spot prime:

• Water, smoke, and rust stains.
• Knots, pitch pockets, and stubborn tannin bleeding.
• Wood, metal, plaster, or plastic when you need a fast drying product.

Application and Clean Up

All primers should be applied to clean, dry, grease-free surfaces. It is a good idea to lightly sand surfaces—followed by wiping off any dust with a tack rag or damp cloth—before applying primer. If the primer leaves the surface rough, lightly sand and dust it again before applying the finish coat. For best results, paint surfaces within a week after priming.

Make sure you have adequate ventilation when using any paint product. This means that there should be no more of the fumes in the room than if you were working outside. If opening the windows and using fans isn’t enough, wear a mask or respirator. You might also want to consider using one of the new low or non-VOC latex formulations when painting indoors.

After the walls have been rolled and the paint has dried, it’s time to tackle the trim. Using an angled trim brush and straight edge guide, work your way carefully around the room. Avoid drips and try to keep a straight line where the trim meets the wall.

When painting over stained trim, rough up the old finish with sandpaper—or use liquid deglosser—so the paint will adhere to the surface. A stain blocking primer should be used over natural or stained wood surfaces to prevent them from bleeding through the paint. After the primer has dried, top coat it with trim paint.

Once the room has been prepped (See Interior Painting Preparation), mix several gallons of paint together in a five gallon bucket. This is known as “boxing” paint because it allows an entire four gallon box of paint to be mixed together at the same time.

Use a brush to paint around the windows, doors, baseboard, and ceiling before rolling the walls. A high quality roller cover makes the work go faster and can result in a big difference in the finished job. While lambskin covers cost twice as much as those made from synthetic fibers, they hold more paint and are worth the extra cost. Choose a roller cover with ½” to ¾” nap, since they hold more paint than smooth covers.

Professional painters often work straight out of a five gallon bucket by hooking a roller screen over the rim. Face the roller screen toward you, and load the roller with plenty of paint. Start at a corner of the room and work away from it. Once the bulk of the paint is off the roller, work back over the section you have just done to even the paint out.

Painting is one of the most popular do-it-yourself projects for homeowners. While we all want to see how the color we picked will look on the walls, it’s important to remember that the key to a good paint job starts long before you open the first can of paint. If the room isn’t prepared properly, the results may be less than you had hoped for and could lead to problems that are hard to repair.

Start by removing the furniture from the room and covering the floor with a drop cloth. Next, clean any dust and cobwebs from the walls with a broom then wipe down the trim with a damp cloth. A degreasing cleaner may be needed in the kitchen and other areas if the surfaces feel greasy to the touch.

Sand any rough spots and peeling paint. A flexible sanding sponge works great on moldings and other curved surfaces. Fill nail holes and dents with lightweight spackling, and caulk any cracks. After the spackling and caulk have dried, you are finally ready to start painting.

Use a brush to paint around the windows, doors, corners, baseboard, and ceiling before painting the walls.