In the fall garden, chrysanthemums are the showstoppers, blooming prolifically well after other garden plants have called it quits for the season. Native to China and prized for over 2,000 years, the name “chrysanthemum” comes from the Greek words for gold (chrysos) and flower (anthos) and is often affectionately shortened to “mum.”

Research into chrysanthemums will lead to some confusion as you encounter two botanical names: Chrysanthemum sp. and Dendrathema sp. The plants were originally named and placed in the genus Chrysanthemum in the 1700s. Then, in the 1990s, they were moved to the genus of Dendrathema because of the sheer number of varieties being developed. That decision was soon reversed, and Chrysanthemum is once again the official scientific name.

Florist chrysanthemums are often button-shaped.

Varieties of Chrysanthemums

There are literally hundreds of types of chrysanthemums – with variations in height, spread, color, size of flower, bloom time, and type of bloom. There are also hardy garden mums and non-hardy florist or show mums. Some of the most common types of blooms are:

• Single – long, daisy-like petals
• Decorative – large with many rows of petals, often with petals curling toward the center
• Cushion – aptly named for its medium-sized, cushion-shaped blossom
• Anemone – cushion-shaped, but with the center covered by shorter petals of a darker color
• Pompon – a small, firm globe of tight petals (tiny ones are called “buttons”)
• Quill – tube-shaped petals that are long and straight
• Spider – long tube-shaped petals with curved ends
• Spoon – a flatter blossom with rows of spoon-shaped petals.

For the home garden, the most common hardy types are the anemone, cushion, decorative, and single varieties. Chrysanthemums are one of the easiest plants to grow, but show-quality and non-hardy blooms require a great deal of care.

“Urano Red-Bronze” has an anemone-style bloom with a darker center.

Growing Conditions for Garden Mums

• Light: Full early sun, at least 5-6 hours daily.
• Location: Chrysanthemums are susceptible to mildew, so keeping the plants dry is a priority. They need plenty of air circulation, water drainage, and morning sun to dry the dew on the leaves and stems. Don’t plant in low-lying, wet, compacted, or boxed-in areas with little air circulation. Chrysanthemum blooming occurs in response to shortening days and longer nights, so avoid planting near streetlights or other nighttime light sources.
• Soil requirements: Fertile, well-drained, sandy or loamy soil with a pH around 6.5.
• Fertilization: Chrysanthemums are pretty tough and can thrive on their own, but they benefit from light and frequent feeding with a balanced fertilizer during the growing season.

“Barbara” is a midseason bloomer with small pompon blooms in brilliant magenta-purple.

Planting Mums

Ideally, chrysanthemums should be planted in the early spring after the danger of freezing weather has passed. They can really be planted any time, though, as long as the roots have at least 6 weeks to become established before extremes of either hot or freezing weather.

Chrysanthemums are available at garden centers in up to gallon-sized containers. Choose bushy plants with plenty of leafy stems branching out at the base.

Dig a hole at least twice the size of the root ball, and incorporate organic matter such as compost or peat to help with drainage. Plant the mums at exactly the same depth they were in the pot – avoid water collection around the stems. Space plants 18-24 inches apart.

For larger varieties, install support structures such as stakes or garden fencing, and try not to walk in mum beds to avoid compacting the soil.

“Pelee” mimics the colors of autumn with tones of russet, yellow, and red on single daisy-shaped blooms.

Pruning Chrysanthemums

When plants are six inches tall, pinch off the tips to encourage bushiness and more blooms. Pinch back again when a foot tall. Some gardeners pinch back every few weeks until July to encourage heavy fall blooming. Last pinching should be about 100 days before desired bloom time.

Spring-planted mums may have been forced to bloom in the greenhouse. Prune back about a third to half the stems when you plant, and it’s likely to bloom again in fall.

After blooming, some gardeners cut mums back to about 4” tall and cover with a light, airy mulch, straw, or evergreen boughs. You don’t have to cut them back, though, and in fact the branches often help hold mulch in place.

Chrysanthemums are spectacular both up close and in multicolored groupings.

Propagating Chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums can be propagated from seeds, cuttings, or plant division. Some chrysanthemum hybrids are patented and cannot be propagated without permission. This is usually indicated on the plant label.

Chrysanthemums actually like to be divided – the new clumps grow better than old, crowded ones. After the last spring frost when shoots are 1”- 3” tall, dig them up and carefully pull or cut apart. Throw away any half-dead or overly woody parts, and plant only the healthy divisions. Add a source of phosphorus to the planting hole, along with organic matter. Ideally, divide chrysanthemums every 3-5 years and relocate to reduce disease.

To propagate from cuttings, snip off a piece about 4”- 6” long, and remove the leaves on the bottom half. Dip in rooting hormone and insert about 1” into vermiculite, sand, or sphagnum moss. Create your own mini-greenhouse using a wire frame and plastic wrap, and place the plants under bright light (but not sunlight) until rooted.

To grow from seed, sow at least 2 months before first frost, or start indoors over the winter. The planting medium should be kept at 70-75 degrees, and seeds should germinate in 1-3 weeks.

Further Information

• Information about growing non-hardy and show-quality mums is available at the National Chrysanthemum Society.
• Photos and descriptions of many varieties of garden mums can be found at Horticultural Marketing Associates.

In October, gardeners have a color show unequaled in any other season. While many summer annuals are still blooming, trees begin their yearly show of fall color. Berries and nuts add polka-dots to shrub and tree borders, and fall-blooming perennials explode into bloom. The shifting angle of sunrays provides a gorgeous backlight in late afternoon, and the crisp air wakes up the senses.

A meadow of goldenrod (Solidago sp.) experiences the glow of autumn sunshine.

In terms of gardening tasks, October is a month of deadlines before freezing weather arrives. Most of the chores from our September Lawn and Garden To-Do List still apply, although with more urgency.

If you haven’t done so already, October is the month to:

• Move non-hardy plants indoors, including tender bulbs.
• Bring houseplants inside – the colder it gets, the greater the shock they will experience.

Sedum “Autumn Joy” - the name says it all.

Shrubs and Trees

• Plant container-grown or balled-and-burlapped trees and shrubs (hold off on bare-root trees and shrubs until late winter).
• Ideally, plant before mid-month to make sure the roots get established before the ground freezes. Since roots grow when the soil temperature is above 40 degrees F, warmer climates can plant later in the season.

Annuals and Perennials

• Plant bulbs. Spring-flowering bulbs—such as hyacinth, daffodils, anemone, crocus, and tulips—should be planted after the ground temperature drops below 60 degrees F.
• Label bulbs and tender perennials before they disappear for the winter.
• Watch the weather for the first killing frost – protect your fall-blooming perennials by building a simple wooden frame and cover with an old bed sheet. One night of looking tacky can prolong their blooming season by as much as a month.
• Harvest seeds from annuals and perennials.
• Tidy up woody perennials by pruning back and mulching – you may want to leave some for winter interest as long as they last, such as hosta, sedum, and ornamental grasses.
• Take cuttings from perennials to root indoors over the winter.

Beautyberry puts on a purple show in autumn.

Fruits and Vegetables

• Harvest bell peppers before frost kills the plants.
• Plant garlic, overwintering onions, and shallots.
• Divide overcrowded rhubarb.
• Apply a deep layer of mulch or straw to your root vegetables – if you keep the ground from freezing, you can harvest them fresh all winter long. If your climate experiences a lot of snow, you can cover the veggie rows with an old, porous carpet or thick blanket – something that you can easily grasp and pull back to access the plants.
• Prune berry vines by removing the vines or canes that fruited, leaving this summer’s new growth to put out berries next season.
• Harvest pumpkins, gourds, multicolored corn, and other fall veggies to use as decorations.

Lawn

• Fertilize your lawn now if needed.
• Plant grass in order to give it time to become established before winter.

Cleanup and Maintenance

• Apply a nice layer of mulch to your garden and naturalized areas.
• Continue cleanup of dead and finished plants and vegetables.
• Order seed and garden catalogues to study by the fire over the winter.
• Stock up on firewood.
• Store and repair tools.
• Do any digging or underground repairs or construction before the ground freezes.
• Commence leaf clean-up!
• If you are a fan of Halloween, make a plan to incorporate spooky decorations (and increased foot traffic) into your landscape. Make sure your yard is free of dangerous obstacles – you wouldn’t want to trip up any little goblins.

Chores to Reduce or Stop in October

• Reduce irrigation, and stop watering a tree or shrub once it has lost its leaves. If you plant evergreens this fall, make sure they get plenty of water before the ground freezes – they use water all winter.
• Reduce watering of indoor plants as well.
• Stop trimming hedges – the flush of new growth can be killed by freezing weather, which can harm the entire plant.
• Hold off on other pruning jobs until the plants go dormant. Ideally, make more thinning cuts and fewer heading cuts to reduce new growth.

Enjoy bell peppers while they last.

Further Information

Articles:

• Using Mulch in Your Garden
• Basic Shrub Pruning Techniques

Videos:

• Mulch
• Planting Bulbs
• Collecting Seeds

The other day, I was working in the front yard when my neighbor stopped to chat. We discussed her unhappy dogwood trees, and before she left she said, “How do you KNOW all this stuff?” I puffed up with pride and said, “Because I’ve killed nearly one of everything.”

It’s true. I’ve contributed to the demise of bulbs, sod lawns, trees, shrubs, you name it. I’ve planted sun plants in shade and shade plants in sun, watered too much and watered too little. I’ve over-pruned, under-fed, over-transplanted, and run over with the lawn mower. I’ve also killed stuff by precisely following package instructions.

I’m quite proud of my gardening résumé. The only way to learn about gardening is to plant stuff and see what happens – if you pay attention. The plants that don’t survive can teach you as much as (or even more than) the plants that thrive, and there are almost always second chances.

The first time my lawn erupted into a sea of purple violets, I actually rather liked it – I tend to evaluate a plant’s beauty first before sealing its doom by calling it a “weed.” For the most part, however, gardeners prefer for their turf grass and their flowers to stay in their respective places and for weeds to stay out of the picture altogether.

Clover, while good for the soil, is a frequent lawn-invader.

Weed Prevention

While fighting weeds is a year-round job, weed prevention is best practiced in the fall and early spring to take advantage of the growing season of turf grasses. A healthy, thick lawn is your number one defense against weeds. In fact, a badly weed-infested lawn is usually a sign of nutrient imbalance or other soil problems.

For a nice, green lawn that is free of weeds, focus first on getting your grass healthy, then give it a couple of months to become strong before applying weed control products. Minimize turf areas, so that you’re only growing grass where grass easily grows. A small patch of healthy grass is far more attractive than a huge expanse of thin, weedy lawn.

My purchased potting-soil often includes “bonus” morning glories.

If you’re amending your soil or sowing new grass seed, buy high-quality seed and consider mixing your own soil amendments using only the best ingredients. Pre-mixed topsoil from landscape supply yards often contains weed seeds.

Weed Control

Small patches of weeds can be handled by pulling or digging. All-over lawn weed control is usually not necessary either, as a heavy infestation would be better handled by making the grass healthy. However, for those in-between situations, you may want to consider the use of a chemical or organic herbicide.

Smartweed (polygonum sp.) can take over poorly-drained, moist areas

To choose the correct herbicide, it’s helpful to understand some basic terms that appear on the labels of commercially-packaged weed control products.

• Pre-Emergent herbicides work by preventing seed germination, so they don’t do much good after the weeds are growing. They’re best used as a preventative spot-treatment in known weedy patches, during the winter or summer dormant season.
• Post-Emergent herbicides work by killing growing plants, usually by interrupting chemical processes such as photosynthesis, protein production, or root growth. They are best applied when the plant is actively growing and in the fall when plants are storing up nutrients in their roots. This allows the herbicide to be quickly sucked down into the roots where it is most effective. Post-emergent herbicides can work on contact (killing only the vegetation they touch) or systemic (absorbing into and killing the entire plant).
• Selective herbicides target only certain types of plants by identifying specific enzymes or other plant chemicals. Frequently you’ll see selective herbicides designed to target monocots (such as grasses or other strappy-leaved plants) or dicots (all other plants, often referred to as “broadleaf” plants).
• Nonselective herbicides kill any plant they contact and should be used for spot-treatment only.
• Total vegetation herbicides kill all plants and sterilize the ground for a certain period of time – they should be used very carefully.

So how do these terms work together when shopping for herbicide? Here are some common examples:

• Roundup (glyphosphate) is a post-emergent, nonselective, systemic herbicide. That means it kills any actively growing plants that it contacts. It’s good for spot-treatment but should be used carefully on windy days, especially around roses.
• “Weed & Feed” products such as Sta-Green Winterizer Weed & Feed usually contain 2,4-D or other post-emergent, selective herbicides. They’re designed to selectively kill broadleaf weeds without harming grass.
• Preen Garden Weed Preventer, on the other hand, contains trifluralin, a pre-emergent, nonselective herbicide that will kill grass seeds as well as weed seeds and is only for use in established gardens.

• Concern Weed Prevention Plus is a product that contains corn gluten, a natural substance produced by corn that prevents surrounding weeds from growing. It is packaged as an organic pre-emergent herbicide that selectively targets broadleaf weeds.
• Grass killers such as Ortho Grass-B-Gon are post-emergent, selective weed killers that target grasses. They are used in flower beds to kill weed grasses.
• Ortho Ground Clear is a combination of post-emergent nonselective herbicides (glyphosphate and imazapyr). Imazapyr is very slow to break down, so this product is designed to kill every plant it contacts and to keep the ground sterile for up to one year.

As with any chemical product, follow package instructions carefully, and only use if absolutely necessary. Herbicides can affect surrounding plants and can pollute ground water when used improperly or in large quantities. By carefully selecting the correct product, you can get rid of those pesky weeds in no time.

Further Information

For more on dealing with weeds, watch these videos on:

• Weed Control
• Vinegar Weed Killer
• Target Weeds Without Harming Other Plants

For help identifying garden weeds, check out:

• Weed Identification Guide (Virginia Cooperative Extension)
• Landscape America Common Lawn and Landscape Weed Identification

For detailed information about specific weeds and control methods, go to:

• www.weedalert.com

By all these lovely tokens
September days are here,
With summer’s best of weather
And autumn’s best of cheer.

-Helen Hunt Jackson, “September”

September heralds the fall gardening season with cooler temperatures and a first taste of autumn in the air. Zones 1-4 will likely experience a first frost, while warmer zones look forward to relief from the late summer heat and drought. September also marks the autumn equinox, when day and night are the same length, and the waning daylight hints at the winter to come.

Now’s the time to be outside to enjoy the beautiful weather while taking care of some of the following lawn and garden tasks for September.

Colorful caladiums are hardy in zones 10 and 11 and can be overwintered indoors in colder climates

Annuals and Perennials

• Divide and/or transplant perennials, making sure to feed the roots with a good source of phosphorus.
• Don’t disturb asters, chrysanthemums, Russian sage, ornamental grasses, or other plants that are of interest in the fall and winter.
• September is the month to plant or transplant peonies.
• Plant annuals such as ornamental cabbage, pansies, violas, and snapdragons.
• After first frost in zones 7 and below, dig up and store tender bulbs such as caladium, canna, taro, elephant ear, dahlia, and tuberous begonia.

Dogwoods show off red berries against a backdrop of green leaves

Shrubs and Trees

• Container grown trees and shrubs can be planted now.
• Remove any dead shrubs and trees.
• Transplant trees and shrubs after the leaves begin to turn.
• Clean up fallen fruit to deter pests and disease.
• Address diseases now. Remove and destroy (do not compost) unhealthy leaves and branches after treating.
• Remove spent blooms, but don’t do any heavy pruning that would encourage new growth which would be killed by the first frost.
• Hold off on fertilizing trees and shrubs to allow them to harden before winter.

The fall apple harvest swings into high gear in September

Vegetable Garden

• Plant late-season vegetables such as peas, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbages, kale, brussels sprouts, leeks, lettuce, radishes, turnips, and onions.
• Once your vegetable garden is finished, plant clover, alfalfa, or legumes as a cover crop. These “green manures” can be plowed under in the spring for a natural fertilizer and soil conditioner.

Houseplants

• Bring houseplants indoors before the nights get too cool.
• Prepare for Christmas color! Place poinsettias and Christmas cactus indoors where they will receive 10 hours of bright light (and 14 hours of total darkness) each day. A Christmas cactus will need a cool spot (50-60 degrees), while poinsettias are OK at 65-72 degrees.
• Plant some spring-flowering bulbs in pots to enjoy over the winter. If you intend to force early blooming for the holidays, put your bulbs in the refrigerator now.

Lawn

• The first half of September is prime lawn time! Take advantage of the season to ensure a strong, tough lawn in the future.
• Start with core aeration and dethatching, leaving about ½” of thatch to decompose.
• If you are planting seed, or if your lawn is thin or weedy, sow seed before mid-month. Let the new shoots grow through 2-3 mowings before applying regular-strength fertilizer or a “weed and feed” product.
• Fertilize with a 3-1-2 fertilizer to encourage top growth and winter hardiness.

Cleanup and Maintenance

• Now is a great time to clear out new planting beds and apply compost (or leaves and grass clippings) to be ready for spring planting.
• Attack those weeds! Commercial herbicides are particularly effective this time of year, as weeds are storing up nutrients in their roots and quickly absorb the herbicide where it counts.
• Check out our videos on how to safely target weeds and organic weed control using vinegar.
• Label your perennials and bulbs before they die back to the ground.
• Put out extra bird feeders to support migrating birds.

Pests

• Slugs are particularly active in September – apply slug bait, diatomaceous earth, or other slug-control products during this time.
• In the fall, slugs lay clusters of eggs about the size of a small BB. Look under stones, boards, and around the edge of your lawn for these colorless eggs and destroy any you find.

Plan Ahead

• If you haven’t already ordered your fall bulbs, do so now! Hold off on planting them until after the first frost.
• Simplify leaf clean-up by installing gutter guard, covering open drainpipes, and tuning up or repairing lawn equipment.
• Build a compost bin to collect fall leaves.

Ask most any gardener whether they prefer organic or chemical fertilizer, and chances are you’ll spark a lively debate. However, if you could ask your plants the same question, you’d find out that at the most basic level, they really can’t tell the difference – nutrients are nutrients.

Yet there ARE significant differences between organic and chemical fertilizers in terms of nutrient availability and the long-term effects on soil, plants, and the environment. So how does a conscientious gardener decide?

Terminology

To begin with, the terminology can be confusing, since labels and gardeners freely throw around words like organic, natural, inorganic, chemical, synthetic, artificial, and manufactured. The good news is that the choice can be reduced to either organic or chemical fertilizers.

Organic Fertilizer

The words “organic” or “natural” in this case simply means that the product is only minimally processed, and the nutrients remain bound up in their natural forms, rather than being extracted and refined. In the case of fertilizer, “organic” does NOT refer to the standards of processing associated with food.

Organic fertilizer is usually made from plant or animal waste or powdered minerals. Examples include manure and compost, as well as bone and cottonseed meal. They are usually sold as “soil conditioners” rather than as fertilizer, because the nutrient ratios are difficult to guarantee. Organic fertilizers may be processed in a factory, or, in the case of manure and compost, at a farm.

There is also a growing selection of more highly processed products now available, with labeled analysis of nutrients and contents. For example, ScottsMiracle Gro Organic Choice Plant Food is a manufactured product composed entirely of chicken litter and ground up feathers, with an N-P-K ratio of 7-1-2. Garden Safe Organic Plant Food is made of poultry manure with a label very similar to chemical fertilizers.

Advantages of Organic Fertilizer:

• In addition to releasing nutrients, as organic fertilizers break down, they improve the structure of the soil and increase its ability to hold water and nutrients. Over time, organic fertilizers will make your soil–and plants–healthy and strong.
• Since they are the ultimate slow-release fertilizers, it’s very difficult to over fertilize (and harm) your plants.
• There’s little to no risk of toxic buildups of chemicals and salts that can be deadly to plants.
• Organic fertilizers are renewable, biodegradable, sustainable, and environmentally friendly.
• Although rather expensive in packages, you can make your own organic fertilizer by composting or find inexpensive sources—such as local dairy farms—that may sell composted manure.

Disadvantages of Organic Fertilizer:

• Microorganisms are required to break down and release nutrients into the soil. Since they need warmth and moisture to do their job, the effectiveness of organic fertilizer is limited seasonally. The good news is that these microorganisms obtain energy from decaying plant and animal matter, so an application of organic fertilizer provides a complete package of nutrients for your soil.
• Organic fertilizers break down according to nature’s rules, so they may not release nutrients as soon as you need them. You have to be patient – you won’t see improvement overnight. In fact, you may actually see a deficiency in your plants during the first couple of months until the first application breaks down. Hang in there! You’ll most definitely be rewarded.
• Nutrient ratios are often unknown, and the overall percentage is lower than chemical fertilizers. However, some organic products are actually higher in certain nutrients.

Chemical Fertilizers

Chemical fertilizers (also called inorganic, synthetic, artificial, or manufactured) have been refined to extract nutrients and bind them in specific ratios with other chemical fillers. These products may be made from petroleum products, rocks, or even organic sources. Some of the chemicals may be naturally occurring, but the difference is that the nutrients in chemical fertilizers are refined to their pure state and stripped of substances that control their availability and breakdown, which rarely occurs in nature.

Advantages of Chemical Fertilizer:

• Since nutrients are available to the plants immediately, improvement occurs in days.
• They are highly analyzed to produce the exact ratio of nutrients desired.
• Standardized labeling makes ratios and chemical sources easy to understand.
• They’re inexpensive.

Disadvantages of Chemical Fertilizer:

• Chemical fertilizers are primarily made from nonrenewable sources, including fossil fuels.
• They grow plants but do nothing to sustain the soil. The fillers do not promote life or soil health, and even packages labeled “complete” do not include the decaying matter necessary to improve soil structure. In fact, chemical fertilizers don’t replace many trace elements that are gradually depleted by repeated crop plantings, resulting in long-term damage to the soil.
• Because the nutrients are readily available, there is a danger of over fertilization. This not only can kill plants but upset the entire ecosystem.
• Chemical fertilizers tend to leach, or filter away from the plants, requiring additional applications.
• Repeated applications may result in a toxic buildup of chemicals such as arsenic, cadmium, and uranium in the soil. These toxic chemicals can eventually make their way into your fruits and vegetables.
• Long-term use of chemical fertilizer can change the soil pH, upset beneficial microbial ecosystems, increase pests, and even contribute to the release of greenhouse gases.

Making a Choice

If you wish to live in harmony with nature and make a lasting improvement in your own patch of earth for generations to come, organic fertilizers outweigh chemicals by leaps and bounds. Can a shot of chemical fertilizer make your containers spill over with blossoms, and give you the biggest tomatoes and greenest lawn in the neighborhood? Absolutely. Just be sure you understand what’s really happening to the earth under your feet, so that you’ll make your choice consciously.

Further Information

• Fertilizer 101
• Fertilizer Selection
• Fertilizer Application
]]> http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/lawn-and-gardening/debate-over-organic-chemical-fertilizers/feed/ http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/lawn-and-gardening/rental-house-flower-bed-solutions/ http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/lawn-and-gardening/rental-house-flower-bed-solutions/#comments Thu, 21 Aug 2008 15:00:56 +0000 Julie Day http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/lawn-and-gardening/rental-house-flower-bed-solutions/ “I just moved into a rental house and the flower beds are pretty bad. I need a cheap solution which preferably does not involved plants or flowers, as I don't want to have to maintain them, to make the front of my house presentable. Any ideas?” -Mike



The easiest way to make your flower beds look nice and neat, without even needing plants, is with mulch. First pull out any weeds, grass, or brush. Then put down some landscape fabric or plastic, to keep weeds from sprouting. Finally, put down a thick layer of the mulch of your choice. You'll be amazed how it makes an area look “tended.”

]]> I just moved into a rental house and the flower beds are pretty bad. I need a cheap solution which preferably does not involved plants or flowers, as I don’t want to have to maintain them, to make the front of my house presentable. Any ideas?
-Mike

The easiest way to make your flower beds look nice and neat, without even needing plants, is with mulch. First pull out any weeds, grass, or brush. Then put down some landscape fabric or plastic, to keep weeds from sprouting. Finally, put down a thick layer of the mulch of your choice. You’ll be amazed how it makes an area look “tended.”

For a little color with minimal maintenance, you might want to tuck a few containers into the area, planted with either flowering annuals or small shrubs. But Mike, don’t overestimate the amount of maintenance needed for some plants. Rather than the fabric and mulch, you can toss out a packet of zinnia, cosmos, or other seeds in the spring for a lush, colorful summer garden that needs nothing more than a little water.



]]> http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/lawn-and-gardening/rental-house-flower-bed-solutions/feed/ http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/lawn-and-gardening/august-lawn-and-garden-to-do-list/ http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/lawn-and-gardening/august-lawn-and-garden-to-do-list/#comments Fri, 01 Aug 2008 15:05:28 +0000 Julie Day http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/lawn-and-gardening/august-lawn-and-garden-to-do-list/

August begins right in the middle of the “dog days of summer,” the hottest and most sultry time of the year. Ancient cultures believed that the excessive heat was caused by the alignment of Sirius, the Dog Star, with the sun during the summer. These are the days when everything seems languid and still – except mosquitoes, of course – and the sun threatens to bake lawns, gardens, and gardeners alike. Read in full.

]]>

August begins right in the middle of the “dog days of summer,” the hottest and most sultry time of the year. Ancient cultures believed that the excessive heat was caused by the alignment of Sirius, the Dog Star, with the sun during the summer. These are the days when everything seems languid and still – except mosquitoes, of course – and the sun threatens to bake lawns, gardens, and gardeners alike.

There is plenty to do in the garden in August, although it is best done in the early morning or late evening when temperatures are more comfortable. Whether you’re in cooler climates making early preparations for autumn, or warmer ones enjoying the height of the garden’s bounty, here are some suggestions for tasks around your yard and garden in August.



Lawn Maintenance and Preparation

• Prepare for fall grass seed planting by leveling low spots, removing weeds, and choosing your seed if it needs to be ordered in advance.
• Aerate your lawn and dethatch it.
• If there is plenty of rainfall, fertilize your lawn.
• To help your grass beat the heat and reduce lawn maintenance, keep your lawn mower blade on the highest setting. Don’t worry if parts of your yard turn brown this time of year – it happens.



Annuals and Perennials

• Spring and summer-flowering perennials can be divided and transplanted after blooming. In zones 5 and warmer: divide overgrown plants and discard the extra, or transplant during the coolest part of the day and preferably in the shade.
• Trim and fertilize your containers – they still have time for another show.
• Deal with late-season pests – such as aphids, whiteflies, and spider mites – with a spray of water from the hose.
• Treat diseased plants, and remove diseased foliage before leaves drop.
• Prune back vigorous climbers such as wisteria, and train them around trellises while the growth is soft.
• Propagate plants by collecting seeds, taking cuttings, or layering.
• Continue deadheading! For prolific bloomers like coreopsis and catmint, shear them lightly to encourage more blooms.
• Label your plants with garden stakes, particularly perennials that die down to the ground in the fall.
• In colder zones 1-3, begin moving your houseplants indoors to acclimate them.



Vegetables and Herbs

• Cut herbs to dry or freeze for winter use.
• Fall vegetable and herb seeds or starters can be planted now. If you live in colder climates, use a cold frame, otherwise sow directly in the ground. Consider spinach, radishes, carrots, beets, lettuce, overwintering onions, kale, kohlrabi, rutabagas, turnips, dill, cilantro, parsley, and chives.
• Plant garlic for spring harvest. Harvest spring-planted garlic when the leaves turn brown. Remove flower stalks from garlic plants to encourage bulb growth.
• Enjoy your harvest!



Shrubs and Trees

• Pick up and destroy fallen fruit from fruit trees to limit insect infestations.
• Make sure newly planted shrubs and trees get plenty of water.
• Install stakes for training and shaping.



Plan Ahead

• Place orders for spring bulbs. If you live in a warm climate, put them in the refrigerator to chill.
• Place orders for shrubs and trees to plant in the fall.
• Apply compost starter to new compost to speed up decomposition for fall use.
• Take pictures, or make notes, of plants you like while they’re blooming and full of leaves.
• Take note of the growth habits of shrubs for future pruning – they should be at their fullest about now.



Maintain

• Water, water, water! Early morning is the best time to water – target plants directly, and water deeply. Avoid getting leaves wet in the hot sun, and avoid soaking containers during the hottest part of the day – both of these can burn plants.
• Keep close watch on your birdbath, water features, and hummingbird feeder – take steps to correct or avoid mold, stagnation, and mosquito larvae.
• Continue weeding, to reduce competition for water and nutrients.
• Beware of powdery mildew, which is caused by moisture and humidity. Help prevent mildew by watering in the cool of the morning, when roots can absorb water but excess will evaporate as the day warms. Also avoid overhead sprinkling in mildew-prone areas. Do not compost leaves that are mildewed.
• When the temperature is over 85 degrees, avoid chemical applications such as fertilizer, fungicide, or insecticide.
• Add compost and mulch to keep your garden cool and to prepare for fall planting.

Stay cool, and enjoy the bounty of your work this growing season!

]]> http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/lawn-and-gardening/august-lawn-and-garden-to-do-list/feed/ http://www.dannylipford.com/home-improvement-video/how-to-grow-african-violets/ http://www.dannylipford.com/home-improvement-video/how-to-grow-african-violets/#comments Mon, 14 Jul 2008 14:28:07 +0000 Danny Lipford http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/lawn-and-gardening/flowers/how-to-grow-african-violets/ To grow new African violets, use a sterile knife and cut off a healthy leaf as near the base as possible. Dip the stem in rooting hormone then push it through a piece of paper and place the stem in water until it develops roots. Watch this video.
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To grow new African violets, use a sterile knife and cut off a healthy leaf as near the base as possible. Dip the stem in rooting hormone then push it through a piece of paper and place the stem in water until it develops roots.

]]> http://www.dannylipford.com/home-improvement-video/how-to-grow-african-violets/feed/ http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/lawn-and-gardening/using-mulch-in-your-garden/ http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/lawn-and-gardening/using-mulch-in-your-garden/#comments Fri, 06 Jun 2008 15:36:38 +0000 Julie Day http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/lawn-and-gardening/using-mulch-in-your-garden/

Nature has a simple and effective process for feeding and enriching the earth. When plants die or drop their leaves, the organic matter decomposes and returns nutrients to the soil. During the winter, this layer of organic matter protects seeds from the cold, and in the spring it holds in moisture to encourage seed germination. If the layer is thick enough, it will discourage new growth and protect established plants. Read in full.

]]> Nature has a simple and effective process for feeding and enriching the earth. When plants die or drop their leaves, the organic matter decomposes and returns nutrients to the soil. During the winter, this layer of organic matter protects seeds from the cold, and in the spring it holds in moisture to encourage seed germination. If the layer is thick enough, it will discourage new growth and protect established plants.

Gardeners have taken this natural process and turned it into the concept of “mulching” where a thick layer of organic matter is applied to planting beds and gardens.



Mulching helps the garden by providing:

• Weed control
• Soil enrichment
• Moisture retention
• Visual appeal

Types of Mulch

Mulch is both functional and decorative, with many different types available. When choosing mulch, consider the density and texture relative to the plants in your garden. Tender seedlings will have a hard time pushing through a thick layer of coarse mulch while large areas around trees and shrubs may benefit from a heavy weed-preventative barrier. While your choice of mulching material should primarily be based on its purpose, it’s also a matter of taste and budget. Some popular options include:

Organic Mulches that Break Down in One Season

• Leaves: While readily available, uncomposted leaves are susceptible to blowing winds when dry and can pack down tightly when wet. Perfect for natural areas, they work best in formal gardens when composted first.
• Grass Clippings: Plentiful during the mowing season, lawn clippings provide great soil amendment but may look messy until they begin to break down.



• Compost: Compost packs a double punch as both mulch and an excellent organic fertilizer.
• Paper: A layer of old newspapers work great as a weed barrier underneath mulch or straw. Try to use papers with biodegradable inks. Shredded waste paper may also be used.
• Hay and Straw: Often used for newly seeded lawns and vegetable gardens since they break down quickly. Hay and straw often contain seeds that may sprout.
• Less common (but effective) one-season organic mulches include shredded corn stalks, manure, peat moss, and rice hulls.

Organic Mulches that Last More than One Season

• Wood: The different varieties of mulch made from ground up trees ranges from shredded and stringy to chipped and chunky. Chipped cedar mulch is both attractive and aromatic. Wood mulches come in single- double- and triple-ground, with the price increasing each time it goes through the grinder. For an inexpensive basic mixed ground mulch, check your local landfill – many cities collect and grind lawn and tree waste, then sell it for as little as $5 per pickup load.



• Bark: Beautiful and durable, bark nuggets have the disadvantage of drifting out of unedged beds, especially in a heavy rain. While relatively expensive, bark can be easily purchased in convenient lightweight bags and provides a nice finished look.
• Pine Straw: Acid-loving plants love pine straw. Longer needles last longer than shorter ones. In areas with a lot of foot traffic, pine needles tend to break down quickly.



• Dyed Mulch: Many shredded wood varieties of mulch are now being dyed every color of the rainbow. So if you’ve always wanted the color of your mulch to reflect your favorite sports team, you just might be in luck.
• Other multi-season organic mulches include seed and nut hulls, cocoa bean hulls, corn cobs, and sawdust.

Inorganic Mulch

• Rubber: Often manufactured to look like wood or bark, recycled rubber mulches are commonly used in playgrounds and walkways. Rubber mulch is the topic of debate among environmentalists, as the benefits of recycling weigh against the potential for off-gassing of toxic chemicals into the air and ground water.
• Rock: Stone, gravel, and crushed rock are highly resistant to wind and maintain their appearance for years. Since rock absorbs heat, it often gives gardens a parched appearance.



Applying Mulch

Spread mulch to a depth of 2” to 4” and keep it back slightly from stems and trunks to avoid smothering the plants. Avoid a “volcano” effect around tree trunks – trees grow their roots to varied and specialized depths and can be sabotaged by an extremely thick layer of mulch.

Beautifying Your Garden with Mulch

In designing your garden, think of mulch as the elegant background that allows your ornamental plants to show their stuff. In the photo below, notice how the edged lawn and mulch accentuates the shape and color of the crimson pygmy barberry.



Mulching not only makes mowing easier around trees but also calls attention to attractive bark and trunk shapes. For a balanced appearance around small ornamental trees, consider making the mulch ring the same diameter as the treetop.



Mulch can also be used to set off an area in a pleasing shape and act as a design feature in its own right. In the yard below, the mulched area serves to:

1. Eliminate the need to grow grass in a shady area.
2. Accentuate the gorgeous Japanese maple tree.
3. Provide a shapely curve in the overall lawn design.



Also consider using more then one type of mulch for design purposes. In this garden, river stones were used as an edging, with shredded wood mulch around the plants themselves.



While river stones often appear white or gray when dry, they can display beautiful colors when wet.



Whatever your design or purpose, your plants will be protected from extreme temperatures, weeds, and short dry spells by a protective layer of mulch.

For a more detailed description of different types of mulch, go to HoneyCreek Vineyards and Orchards.

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