I put polyurethane on cabinets after I stained them. Now a week later, I find oil on the surface of the cabinets, and when I try to clean it, it leaves dull spots. I don’t know what to do, or what is the problem. H-E-E-E-E-L-P!!! - Thomas

Thomas,

Polyurethane finishes should dry hard in a matter of hours and not bleed oil as yours is doing. Here are some possible reasons for the problem:

• Using an old or partially used can of finish.
• Using a can of finish that has been subjected to extreme temperatures.
• Not stirring the finish thoroughly before application.
• Applying the finish outside the recommended temperature and humidity range.
• Applying over an oily surface, or over certain exotic woods—like rosewood, teak, ebony, and cocobolo—that contain natural oils.

If you have followed these guidelines, the problem may be with the finish itself.

As far as solving your problem goes, if the finish has stopped bleeding oil and feels like it has dried hard, you might be able to even out the gloss by wiping the cabinets down with a rag dampened with mineral spirits (assuming it was oil-based polyurethane) followed by a dry cloth. Be sure to extinguish any pilot lights and open flames and use adequate ventilation when working indoors with mineral spirits.

If the gloss is still uneven, try sanding it lightly with 220 grit sandpaper and applying another coat of finish. Use a fresh can of the same finish from a different store in case the batch in question was bad. If you continue to have problems, the only alternative might be to strip the cabinets and start all over again.

Good luck,

Hi Donna,

Yes, you can lay a wood floor over tile if the existing floor is in good shape and without cracks. I would suggest 3/8” thick, prefinished engineered hardwood flooring. You can install it either as a floating floor that locks together and is not attached to the tile, or glue it down. Check to be sure the existing floor is flat first and fill in any low spots with leveling compound. If the floor is being glued to a slick surface, rough the tiles up a bit by sanding them to allow the adhesive to adhere better.

Good luck with your project,

This small room is perfect for a piece of low pile commercial carpet we picked up for $100. Start by aligning the factory cut edges of the carpet against two of the adjoining walls in the room.

Press the carpet firmly against the remaining walls with a 6” drywall knife, then cut through it using a sharp utility knife.

The drywall knife holds the carpet in place and acts as a guide for the cuts.

After the carpet has been cut to fit, fold it back and spread adhesive around the perimeter of the room with a notched trowel.

Carefully position the carpet on the floor, and use the drywall knife to press it into the glue.

Can I lay ceramic tile over vinyl tile in my kitchen? I really don’t want to pull up the vinyl. -Linda

Linda,

We receive more questions about tiling over an existing floor than any other. It seems like everyone wants to know what to do when they replace the floor in their kitchen or bath.

If the existing vinyl floor was installed over concrete and is glued down firmly, you should be able to tile right over it without any problem. Scrub the floor first to remove any dirt and grease then apply a bed of thin-set mortar and tile.

If the vinyl was applied over a wood subfloor, you should install ½” cement backerboard on top of it first, using corrosion resistant screws driven into the floor joists. Another option to backerboard on wood floors is one of the new polyethylene membranes such as Schluter®-DITRA. At only 1/8” thick, it can shave 3/8” off the finished thickness of your floor if height is a problem.

You can also tile directly over an existing tile floor as long as it is sound. As with vinyl, clean it first so the mortar will adhere well to the old tile.

For more information on tiling, check out our articles Tiling a Floor and Installing Tile Over a Wood Subfloor.

More and more materials for countertops and floors are available that are both beautiful and environmentally friendly. One product called shetkaSTONE is made from recycled paper, plant, and cloth fibers. While it has the look of stone, it can be cut and screwed like wood. It is water and stain resistant and comes in a number of colors. Best of all shetkaSTONE can be recycled again if it is ever replaced.

Richlite® is another countertop material made from paper combined with phenolic resin to form a chemically inert product that doesn’t release harmful gases into the air. It is harder than wood, stain resistant, and can be heated up to 350° without scorching. Unlike stone, Richlite® countertops can be cantilevered without additional reinforcement underneath.

IceStone® is made from recycled glass mixed with concrete to create a durable material that is environmentally friendly. It comes in dozens of colors and patterns and can be used on anything from kitchen countertops and bathroom vanities to shower surrounds and flooring.

Marmoleum linoleum floor tiles are made from a combination of natural ingredients including linseed oil, limestone, wood flour, and organic pigments. The natural antibacterial properties and lack of chemical gases make it the perfect flooring for those suffering from allergies or asthma. It is available in over 100 mix and match colors and installed with adhesive. Marmoleum® Click is a similar product that easily locks together to provide a homeowner friendly installation that doesn’t require glue.

While linoleum is much easier on your feet than ceramic tile, for the ultimate in cushioned comfort you might consider cork flooring. It is harvested every few years from the bark of the cork oak without killing the tree. The cork is then ground and pressed together into floor tiles that are surprisingly durable, given their resilient nature.

Bamboo is sustainable wood flooring, but unlike cork, it is as hard or harder than oak or maple. Bamboo comes prefinished in either a light natural color or carbonized to a dark brown and is available with vertical or horizontal grain. Both cork and bamboo flooring are available at The Home Depot.

Sandhill Industries manufactures ecofriendly wall tiles from 100% recycled glass that require half the energy to make than ceramic tile. They are available in a number of mosaic patterns and vibrant colors.

Nowhere is the charm of an older home more apparent than in the rich look of heart pine floors. Cut from the dense heartwood near the center of virgin longleaf pine trees, heart pine is prized for its fine grain, durability, and lasting beauty.

The floor in this century old house had been hidden under a layer of glued down carpet. Since trying to dissolve the adhesive with solvent would only have forced it further into the grain and cracks, it was decided to sand it off instead.

Once the glue had been removed with a floor sander and course grit sandpaper, the floor was sanded again using finer grits of paper.

Sanding dust from the floor was mixed with lacquer sealer and toweled over the entire surface to fill any cracks between the boards.

After it had dried, the floor was sanded again to remove any excess sealer then stained with Early American wood stain to reduce the yellow tones in the wood.

When the stain had dried, a semi gloss finish was applied to the floor with a lamb’s wool applicator.

The beautiful look and durable surface of this heart pine floor is one the homeowners will enjoy for years to come.

I currently have a dated ceramic bathroom tile floor originally installed over a cement and mortar base. The ceramic tiles are about 6 inch square with a matte finish and about 1/4″ thick with 1/4″ sanded grouting. Is it possible to tile on top of the existing tiles with thin set mortar? If so, are there any preparations to the existing tiles required? Your advice would be appreciated, James

James,

Yes, you can lay tile over an existing tile floor as long as it is in good condition with no major cracks or settling. Keep in mind, however, that it will raise the height of the floor, which might require cutting off the bottom of the bathroom door. You will also need to take the toilet out before installing the tile and replace the existing toilet flange bolts if they aren’t long enough for the added height. If any of the old tiles are loose, reattach them to the floor, and fill in any missing spots. After cleaning the floor thoroughly, lay the tile with thin-set adhesive. For more detailed information on how to tile over tile, check out the online video from our Bathroom Makeover show.

Related Links

• Tiling a Floor
• Installing Tile Over a Wood Subfloor
• Hiring a Tiling Contractor

If you’re under the impression that environmentally friendly flooring products, such as bamboo and cork, are little more than the latest fad that will soon disappear, then think again. Though very different from each other, both are high quality products that make beautiful and durable floors. In addition, bamboo and cork are easy to install and cost about the same as traditional hardwood.

What Is Sustainable Flooring?

Simply put, sustainable flooring is a material that doesn’t deplete natural resources when harvested. In fact, both bamboo and cork regenerate themselves and can be maintained indefinitely. Below is a comparison on how each is grown and harvested.

Traditional Wood Flooring

• Sustainable: No
• Material: Wood (oak, pine, etc.)
• Maturity: 30-100 years
• How Harvested: Timber cutting
• When Harvested: Once at maturity then replanted

Bamboo

• Sustainable: Yes
• Material: Grass
• Maturity: 5-7 years
• How Harvested: Cut at ground level
• When Harvested: Every 5-7 years, regrows from roots

Cork

• Sustainable: Yes
• Material: Wood Bark
• Maturity: 25 years
• How Harvested: Bark is peeled away
• When Harvested: Every 9-12 years, tree remains alive while bark regenerates

Sizing Them Up

While sustainability is important, a product has to perform well to be a viable alternative. Fortunately, both bamboo and cork have a lot going for them. Here are the pros and cons of each.

Bamboo

Photo Courtesy of DuroDesign, Inc.

• Resembles traditional plank wood flooring
• Can be installed using glue, nails, or by floating
• Comes in a variety of colors, both natural and stained
• Hard and very durable
• Expands and contracts less than solid hardwood
• Noisy, doesn’t absorb sound
• Can bleach if exposed to direct sunlight

Bamboo is the fastest growing plant in the world and is able to grow up to four feet a day. Most commercial bamboo comes from China, along with a few other Asian countries, but it is suitable to be grown in the southeastern United States as well.

While bamboo is considered harder than either oak or maple, the type of bamboo used, the length of time it is allowed to mature, and the way it is processed can all affect hardness. The best flooring is made from Moso or “Mao Zhu” bamboo that has matured for five to six years before harvesting. The stalks can grow up to eight inches in diameter and 75 feet high. After being cut the stalks are split into strips then flattened and dried before being laminated into boards.

Bamboo flooring is available in either vertical or flat grain. In vertical grain boards, the strips are oriented with the narrow wall thickness facing up, resulting in a more even grain. Flat grain boards have the strips glued together horizontally giving it a wider more pronounced grain pattern.

Colors for bamboo flooring range from natural light tones to darker carbonized shades of brown to stained products of almost any hue imaginable. Carbonizing is the process of steaming or boiling which causes the natural sugars in bamboo to darken and turn brown. This process can also cause the fibers to soften, resulting in flooring that is not as hard as natural or stained bamboo.

It is also important to consider the quality of the finish and the formaldehyde content of the glue when purchasing bamboo or any flooring. The out-gassing of chemicals from formaldehyde glue has been linked with respiratory problems. Since manufacturing bamboo flooring is a complex process, you should only buy from a reputable dealer that offers a long-term warranty on their products.

Cork

Photo Courtesy of DuroDesign, Inc.

• Comes in tiles that can be glued down or planks that can be floated
• Cushions and insulates, feels soft underfoot
• Available in a variety of natural and stained colors
• Quiet, reduces noise
• Can have a very distinctive grain pattern.
• Spills can stain if not wiped up
• Sunlight can cause color to fade

The cork tree is a type of oak that grows in the Mediterranean countries of Europe with Portugal being the largest producer. It can live for hundreds of years, and the bark is harvested by hand every nine or ten years.

Cork floors are more durable than you might think, and some are still in use after more than 100 years. While it is a very springy material and resistant to dents, it tends to show scratches and scrapes. Due to its soft nature and the fact that it consists of only a thin veneer applied to a tile or plank, it is recommended that cork floors be varnished to protect them.

Much of the cork used for flooring has a bold swirling grain pattern rather than the bland texture of a bulletin board. While this can be seen as a unique and eye-catching design feature, potential home buyers might not share your enthusiasm should you decide to sell your house some day.

The Bottom Line

Bamboo and cork flooring are beautiful green alternatives to traditional hardwood floors. Whichever one you choose, you are sure to enjoy the warmth and beauty it brings for years to come and enjoy the satisfaction of knowing that you’re helping the environment at the same time.

Sustainable Flooring Suppliers

• Bamboo Mountain
• Duro Design
• Teragren

While you could hire a contractor to remodel your bathroom, the bill could run as much as $7,000 to $8,000. We’ll show you how to do it on a tight budget by purchasing the materials from the home improvement center and doing the work yourself.

The bath we are renovating is about 50 years old and measures only 4’ wide by 9’ long. With the exception of the shower, all of the fixtures will be replaced and a vent fan mounted in the ceiling. While many of the items we used were available on the shelf at the home center, we were able to special order hard to find items from their catalog.

Demolition

We started by removing the old toilet. After turning off the water, the handle was held down until the tank had drained. Next, a bucket of water was poured in the bowl to force out much of the remaining water.

After the water supply line and bolts holding it to the floor had been removed, the toilet was taken out and the wax ring scraped away. The sink was then disconnected and removed along with the vanity. Once the fixtures were out of the way, the peel and stick tile floor could be pulled up and the glue scrubbed off using a degreaser and bleach.

Electrical Work

In order to accommodate a larger mirror over the vanity, the electrical outlet and light switch had to be moved. This required cutting a hole in the drywall along with adding an additional switch for the vent fan. Since the drywall was already in place, a “pop-in” or remodeling electrical box was used that doesn’t require nailing to the studs.

After the hole for the NuTone combination vent fan and light had been cut in the ceiling, the power was turned off so it could be mounted and wired from the attic. While the fan is extremely quiet, it is efficient as well, allowing the air in the room to be exchanged every four minutes.

Floor Tile

Once the old tile floor had been cleaned, chalk lines were popped in both directions to mark the center of the room. To keep the chalk lines from being rubbed out, they were sprayed with hair spray to fix them in place.

The new tiles for the floor were porcelain, rather than ceramic, which is more durable and a bit more expensive. They were installed diagonally on top of the old tile floor using a stiff mixture of thin-set adhesive. A portable wet saw and tile nippers were used to make the curved cuts around the toilet flange while a scoring cutter was used for straight cuts.

Trim and Painting

Any holes in the drywall were patched and finished. Then new window facing were installed along with baseboards, before the bath was painted.

Bathroom Fixtures

The vanity for the bathroom was made by RSI Home Products and special ordered through The Home Depot. It features a narrow profile that fit in perfectly with the bathroom. The faucet was made by Kohler and installed before the top was set in place. A sliding glass door for the shower went in as well.

The Rockton duel flush toilet from Sterling has two flushing modes that use either 0.8 or 1.6 gallons per flush. While the eco-friendly toilet was expensive at $680, it can save a family of four up to 6,000 gallons of water a year.

Finishing Up

The mirror over the vanity was screwed directly to studs in the wall. Since there was no stud available to hold the towel holder, it was attached to the drywall with Molly bolts, which hold much better than plastic anchors.

When our bathroom budget makeover had been completed, the change was dramatic. While we spent about $2,500 for materials, we probably saved twice that much in labor by doing the work ourselves.

Other Tips From This Episode

Power tools used on Today’s Homeowner with Danny Lipford® were provided by Ryobi.

½” plywood with a heat emission plate on one side and a dovetail groove on the other is installed under pre-finished hardwood. 5/16” plastic PEX tubing fits in the groove and conducts to the heat emission plate distributing heat across the floor.