Clogged overflowing gutters can lead to rotten fascia boards and even cause damage to the foundation. Clean them during dry weather starting at the downspout and working back. Wear gloves and use a gardening trowel or a scoop made from a plastic container. Rather than throwing the leaves and debris away, put them on your compost pile. After the gutters are clean, use a garden hose to wash out the inside, and check to be sure the downspouts are flowing freely.

For more detailed information on cleaning and repairing your gutters, see our article on The Trouble with Gutters.

Painting the outside of your house needs to be done regularly to provide protection for the siding and trim. A good paint job requires a lot of prep work, which is as important as the painting itself. Houses built before 1979 should be tested to see if the existing paint contains lead, since breathing or ingesting sanding dust from lead based paint can lead to lead poisoning. Regardless, always wear an approved dust mask or respirator, as well as safety glasses or goggles, when scraping or sanding paint.

Here’s how to go about it:

• Treat any mildew with a solution of one part bleach to four parts water mixed with a little detergent or TSP in a pump up sprayer. Rinse off after 10-20 minutes.
• Pressure wash the house to remove any loose paint and dirt, being careful not to damage wood siding or trim, and allow to dry thoroughly.
• Scrape the house to remove any peeling paint using a paint scraper and putty knife.
• If needed, sand the wood smooth with a rotary sander. The goal is not to remove all the paint, just the part that is loose or peeling. Feather out the edges so it looks smooth.
• Use a stain blocking primer over bare wood to prevent knots and sap from bleeding through.
• Caulk any gaps or cracks with a high quality, paintable caulking.
• Apply two top coats of a good quality exterior paint, being sure to follow the directions on the can.

For more information, check out our article on How to Paint Anything Outside.

Shrubs that are too close to your house can deflect rain onto the siding and prevent moisture from drying out. This can result in rotten wood and provide a fertile environment for mold and mildew to grow. It can also result in a termite infestation. Keep bushes trimmed back at least 12” to 18” away from your house and well back from air conditioner units.

“I’m putting a fence in my backyard and need to find my property line. How do I do that?” - Rick from Alabama

It’s important to know exactly where your property lines are before starting a construction project in your yard. Licensed land surveyors can be found in the phonebook to survey your property and mark the corners of your land. It may also be possible to use a metal detector to locate the original metal pegs that mark the corners of your property.

Whether it’s adding a pool or building a playground for the kids, backyards are a perfect place for family activities. No matter what your backyard plans, remember to keep safety in mind when designing and building your family friendly project.

Fencing

The first step often involves fencing in the backyard to provide privacy and address safety concerns. For young children, consider adding a second gate latch high enough to prevent inquisitive fingers from accessing it. See our article Fences: Surrounding Your Surroundings for more information.

Play Sets

Backyard play sets have come a long way in recent years. The sturdy wooden frameworks and plastic accessories such as those from Rainbow Play Systems not only look great and are kid friendly but hold up to the elements better than traditional metal swing sets.

When purchasing a play set:

• Choose a set your children will grow into, rather than out of.
• Observe your children playing and get their feedback to determine the activities they enjoy.
• Look for a system that can be expanded as your children grow.
• Make sure it’s made of a durable wood like redwood or cedar. Pressure treated pine can be used if the preservative doesn’t contain arsenic or chromium.

Installation of a play set can be done professionally, or you can do-it-yourself. Many sets come with precut wooden parts, though long posts may have to be purchased separately.

When building a play set:

• Keep at least 6’ between the set and other objects such as trees and fences.
• Round sharp edges with a router to prevent injuries.
• Sand rough surfaces to reduce splinters.
• Allow pressure treated wood to dry and weather before staining.

Pools & Hot Tubs

Swimming pools and hot tubs are another popular component in a family friendly backyard. While everyone wants a pool, they’re expensive to build and maintain. See our article on Adding a Pool for more information.

Hot tubs are not only less expensive and easier to install, they use only about $100 a year in chemicals and the water only needs to be changed every four months. Since a full hot tub can weigh from 2,000 to 5,000 pounds, it’s important to be sure you have an adequate slab or reinforced deck capable of supporting the weight. To find out how much your hot tub will weigh, multiply the number of gallons of water it holds by 8.34 pounds then add the empty weight of the unit and weight of the occupants.

Storage Building

In order to maintain your backyard, you need a storage shed to store lawn equipment, tools, and other supplies. Start by checking the city setback requirements to determine how far the shed must be built from property lines. Also, examine any neighborhood restrictions to see if they have regulations concerning the materials, size, or style of storage buildings.

When building or buying a storage shed, consider:

• Size: How much room you’ll need for your tools and equipment.
• Lighting: Since sheds often don’t have power, choose one with natural lighting from windows or skylights.
• Ventilation: To reduce heat and provide fresh air. Cover vents with screen or hardware cloth to keep insects and animals out.
• Accessories: Shelves and hanging racks to organize lawn and garden equipment. Adjustable shelves provide flexible storage space.

The foundation can be a concrete slab or a wooden floor made from pressure treated pine and plywood that’s set off the ground on concrete blocks or pavers.

This 8’ x 10’ storage shed from Lifetime is made from steel reinforced plastic panels that are both strong and durable.

While you can hire professionals to assemble a storage shed kit, it can make a good weekend DIY project and teach older kids basic carpentry skills. You can also have a prebuilt storage building delivered to your home. Before ordering, be sure there’s adequate vertical and horizontal clearance for access to the site and unloading.

For more information, see our article on Sheds.

Family Garden

A family vegetable garden can provide a valuable learning experience for kids while putting food on the table at the same time. Kits are available to start your garden from seeds, or you can buy seedlings from a nursery.

Vegetable gardens can either be planted directly in the ground, in raised beds, or in containers on a patio or porch. It’s important to provide the proper ratio of light, water, soil, and fertilizer for your plants to grow. Visit our Around the Yard website for more information on gardens.

Other Tips From This Episode

Power tools used on Today’s Homeowner with Danny Lipford® are provided by Ryobi.

Hi Mike,

A heavy duty hammer drill or rotary hammer with a high quality masonry bit is the tool of choice for drilling into concrete. The hammer action on the drill propels the bit through the concrete and breaks up any aggregate imbedded in it. This allows you to drill much faster without wearing out either the operator or the bit.

Good luck with your project,

• Always use a grill outside in an open area away from the house.
• Don’t store a propane tank in an enclosed area.
• Come straight home after having a tank filled and remove it from the car immediately.
• Don’t use a tank that is dented, rusted, or otherwise damaged.
• Never buy or accept an exhanged tank if the brass valve has turned a blue or green color.
• Turn off the burners and close the cylinder valve after each use.
• Keep a fire extinguisher, bucket of sand, or garden hose handy in case of fire.
• Never leave a lit grill unattended.

While this house had a beautiful view, the homeowners could only enjoy it when the weather permitted. With the addition of this great looking sunroom and patio, they’ll be able to take advantage of it all year long.

The first step was to remove the existing bricks from the exterior walls adjoining the sunroom. Next, the site was prepared and forms were constructed for the two concrete slabs.

Foundation

When building forms, make sure they are sturdy enough to keep from deforming under the weight of the concrete. The form for the patio employed a step arrangement to accommodate a brick border around the outer edge.

The soil under the sunroom was treated for termites. The patio foundation was treated as well in case the homeowners ever decided to convert it into living space.

A plastic vapor barrier was put down to prevent the absorption of moisture from the ground, then reinforcing wire and rebars were cut to size and set in place to keep the concrete from cracking. The slabs were poured and the surface leveled and finished.

Scored Concrete Floor

Once the concrete had set, lines were laid out in a diagonal grid pattern on the sunroom floor. Grooves were cut into the concrete using a circular saw and guide board to simulate the look of a tile floor. Since concrete continues to harden for quite some time, score the lines as soon as possible after it has set to make cutting easier.

To protect the concrete while curing, the floor was covered with sheets of plywood to prevent it from becoming nicked or scarred during construction.

Framing

Since a sunroom has more opening for windows and doors than walls area, 2”x 6” studs were used to provide added support. Metal angle braces were bolted to the slab and attached to the corner posts for extra security.

Roofing

Once the walls were up, work on the roof began. The slope and design of the roof and eaves were carefully matched to the house. The ceiling joists were aligned with the overhang and the rafters tied into the existing roof. When adding to an existing roof, make sure the framing is strong enough to handle the additional load.

Since the new roof channeled runoff to the side of the house, a small extension known as a “cricket” was considered as a way to divert the water. Crickets are commonly used to prevent water from building up behind a fireplace or other obstruction.

After consulting with the roofer, however, it was decided that an extra layer of felt underlayment and additional copper flashing were all that was needed to handle the excess water.

Eaves

A ventilation strip was installed in the soffit under the eaves with 3/8” plywood flanking it on either side. The wood fascia boards were matched to those on the existing house.

Windows and Doors

After the windows and doors had been installed and the drywall hung, any gaps between the door jambs and wall were filled with caulking or foam backer rods to prevent air infiltration. The window casings were assembled and aligned with the window units, and the trim molding applied.

Climate Control

To handle the heating and cooling needs of the sunroom, a ductless unit from Mitsubishi was mounted on the wall near the ceiling with a separate outdoor condenser unit. The temperature can be adjusting using a wall mounted thermostat or a remote control.

Bricking

The bricks and mortar on the exterior of the sunroom were carefully matched to the existing bricks and mortar so they would blend in seamlessly with the house. The same bricks were used to form the border on the patio that is inset into the slab.

Locks

SmartKey deadbolts from Kwikset were installed on the doors to the sunroom so they would match the locks on the house. These innovative locks can be programmed to match the keys from other locks, eliminating the need for multiple keys.

Floor Finishing

An acid stain was applied to the floor of the sunroom to give it a rich brown color. Acid stains consist of muriatic (hydrochloric) acid mixed with metallic salts. The acid etches the surface which allows the salt to penetrate and react with hydrated lime in the concrete. Once the stain has dried, the acid is neutralized, and a sealer is applied to protect the surface.

Other Tips From This Episode

Power tools used on Today’s Homeowner with Danny Lipford® are provided by Ryobi.

Building steps used to require complicated measurements and difficult angled cuts, but the precut pressure treated stringers available at home centers today have made the job much easier.

Allow for a stringer at each end of the steps and at 16” intervals in between. Use corrosion resistant screws and nails to assemble the steps.

Start by measuring the width of the opening, then cut a treated 2”x4” to length to attach to the side of the house as an anchor for the stringers. Remember to take 3” off the length of the anchor board to allow for the thickness of the end stringers.

Position the anchor board on the house, taking into account the thickness of the top tread. Screw the board in place, making sure it’s level with the house. When attaching to brick, drill pilot holes with masonry bit for anchors or masonry screws.

Place the outside stringers against the house flush with the top of the anchor board, checking to be sure they’re level and square, and nail them to the ends of the anchor board.

Cut 1½” off the end of each of the inside stringers to allow for the thickness of the anchor board.

Toenail the inside stringers to the anchor board flush with the top.

Attach a treated 1”x 8” riser to the bottom of the steps to tie the stringers together.

Cut the 5/4” x 6” pressure treated treads to length, allowing for the overhang on each end, and nail them in place. Using two treads on each step minimizes the cracking and cupping that might occur with a single wide board.

Rip 1”x8” risers to width and cut to length flush with the outside of the stringers. Nail the risers to the stringers to complete the steps.

Power tools used on Today’s Homeowner with Danny Lipford® are provided by Ryobi.

Cast iron grates from Iron Age Designs are not only functional and beautiful but are made using mostly recycled materials and qualify for LEED green building credits. Grates come in over a dozen designs with sizes to fit most standard applications from drain and tree grates to wall registers for heating ducts. Made in the United States, Iron Age Designs can produce custom patterns and sizes as well, with no order considered too small. In addition to cast iron, grates can also be made from aluminum or silicone bronze.