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<channel>
	<title>Danny Lipford</title>
	<link>http://garden.dannylipford.com</link>
	<description>Expert Advice on Home Improvement</description>
	<pubDate>Thu, 03 Jul 2008 16:08:00 +0000</pubDate>
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	<language>en</language>
			<item>
		<title>How to Drill into Concrete</title>
		<link>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/concrete-and-masonry/how-to-drill-into-concrete/</link>
		<comments>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/concrete-and-masonry/how-to-drill-into-concrete/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 Jun 2008 20:45:01 +0000</pubDate>
		
	<category>Concrete and Masonry</category>
	<category>Exterior</category>
	<category>Ask Danny</category>
	<category>Tools &amp; Hardware</category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/concrete-and-masonry/how-to-drill-into-concrete/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<div class='quickpick'><p><em>What tool do I need in order to bore drainage holes in a poured concrete retaining wall? - Mike</em></p>

<p>Hi Mike,</p>
<p>A heavy duty hammer drill or rotary hammer with a high quality masonry bit is the tool of choice for drilling into concrete. The hammer action on the drill propels the bit through the concrete and breaks up any aggregate imbedded in it. This allows you to drill much faster without wearing out either the operator or the bit.</p>
<p>Good luck with your project,</p>

<p><img src="/images/signature.gif" width="50" height="50" alt="Danny" style="border: 0;"></p></div>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em>What tool do I need in order to bore drainage holes in a poured concrete retaining wall? - Mike</em></p>
<p>Hi Mike,</p>
<p>A heavy duty hammer drill or rotary hammer with a high quality masonry bit is the tool of choice for drilling into concrete. The hammer action on the drill propels the bit through the concrete and breaks up any aggregate imbedded in it. This allows you to drill much faster without wearing out either the operator or the bit.</p>
<p>Good luck with your project,</p>
<p><img src="/images/signature.gif" width="50" height="50" alt="Danny" style="border: 0;"></p>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>(654) Sunroom Addition</title>
		<link>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/concrete-and-masonry/654-sunroom-addition/</link>
		<comments>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/concrete-and-masonry/654-sunroom-addition/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 13 May 2008 16:23:24 +0000</pubDate>
		
	<category>Concrete and Masonry</category>
	<category>Exterior</category>
	<category>Today's Homeowner</category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/concrete-and-masonry/654-sunroom-addition/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p class="img"><a href="http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/concrete-and-masonry/654-sunroom-addition/"><img src="/images/episode/thumbnail/654-sunroom-addition.jpg" width="88" height="76" alt="(654) Sunroom Addition" /></a></p>
<p>While this house had a beautiful view, the homeowners could only enjoy it when the weather permitted. With the addition of this great looking sunroom and patio, they’ll be able to take advantage of it all year long.</p>]]></description>
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<hr />
<p>While this house had a beautiful view, the homeowners could only enjoy it when the weather permitted. With the addition of this great looking sunroom and patio, they’ll be able to take advantage of it all year long.</p>
<p><img width="400" height="180" border="1" alt="" src="/images/episode/654-sunroom-addition-1.jpg" /></p>
<p>The first step was to remove the existing bricks from the exterior walls adjoining the sunroom. Next, the site was prepared and forms were constructed for the two concrete slabs.</p>
<h3>Foundation</h3>
<p>When building forms, make sure they are sturdy enough to keep from deforming under the weight of the concrete. The form for the patio employed a step arrangement to accommodate a brick border around the outer edge.</p>
<p><img width="400" height="180" border="1" alt="" src="/images/episode/654-sunroom-addition-2.jpg" /></p>
<p>The soil under the sunroom was treated for termites. The patio foundation was treated as well in case the homeowners ever decided to convert it into living space.</p>
<p>A plastic vapor barrier was put down to prevent the absorption of moisture from the ground, then reinforcing wire and rebars were cut to size and set in place to keep the concrete from cracking. The slabs were poured and the surface leveled and finished.</p>
<p><img width="400" height="180" border="1" alt="" src="/images/episode/654-sunroom-addition-3.jpg" /></p>
<h3>Scored Concrete Floor</h3>
<p>Once the concrete had set, lines were laid out in a diagonal grid pattern on the sunroom floor. Grooves were cut into the concrete using a circular saw and guide board to simulate the look of a tile floor. Since concrete continues to harden for quite some time, score the lines as soon as possible after it has set to make cutting easier.</p>
<p><img width="400" height="180" border="1" alt="" src="/images/episode/654-sunroom-addition-4.jpg" /></p>
<p>To protect the concrete while curing, the floor was covered with sheets of plywood to prevent it from becoming nicked or scarred during construction.</p>
<h3>Framing</h3>
<p>Since a sunroom has more opening for windows and doors than walls area, 2”x 6” studs were used to provide added support. Metal angle braces were bolted to the slab and attached to the corner posts for extra security.</p>
<p><img width="400" height="180" border="1" alt="" src="/images/episode/654-sunroom-addition-5.jpg" /></p>
<h3>Roofing</h3>
<p>Once the walls were up, work on the roof began. The slope and design of the roof and eaves were carefully matched to the house. The ceiling joists were aligned with the overhang and the rafters tied into the existing roof. When adding to an existing roof, make sure the framing is strong enough to handle the additional load.</p>
<p>Since the new roof channeled runoff to the side of the house, a small extension known as a “cricket” was considered as a way to divert the water. Crickets are commonly used to prevent water from building up behind a fireplace or other obstruction.</p>
<p><img width="400" height="180" border="1" alt="" src="/images/episode/654-sunroom-addition-6.jpg" /></p>
<p>After consulting with the roofer, however, it was decided that an extra layer of felt underlayment and additional copper flashing were all that was needed to handle the excess water.</p>
<h3>Eaves</h3>
<p>A ventilation strip was installed in the soffit under the eaves with 3/8” plywood flanking it on either side. The wood fascia boards were matched to those on the existing house.</p>
<p><img width="400" height="180" border="1" alt="" src="/images/episode/654-sunroom-addition-7.jpg" /></p>
<h3>Windows and Doors</h3>
<p>After the windows and doors had been installed and the drywall hung, any gaps between the door jambs and wall were filled with caulking or foam backer rods to prevent air infiltration. The window casings were assembled and aligned with the window units, and the trim molding applied.</p>
<h3>Climate Control</h3>
<p>To handle the heating and cooling needs of the sunroom, a ductless unit from <a href="http://www.mehvac.com/Products/Category.asp?ProductCategoryID=24">Mitsubishi</a> was mounted on the wall near the ceiling with a separate outdoor condenser unit. The temperature can be adjusting using a wall mounted thermostat or a remote control.</p>
<p><img width="400" height="180" border="1" alt="" src="/images/episode/654-sunroom-addition-8.jpg" /></p>
<h3>Bricking</h3>
<p>The bricks and mortar on the exterior of the sunroom were carefully matched to the existing bricks and mortar so they would blend in seamlessly with the house. The same bricks were used to form the border on the patio that is inset into the slab.</p>
<p><img width="400" height="180" border="1" alt="" src="/images/episode/654-sunroom-addition-9.jpg" /></p>
<h3>Locks</h3>
<p><a href="http://www.kwikset.com/Products/SmartKey/default.aspx">SmartKey</a> deadbolts from Kwikset were installed on the doors to the sunroom so they would match the locks on the house. These innovative locks can be programmed to match the keys from other locks, eliminating the need for multiple keys.</p>
<p><img width="400" height="180" border="1" alt="" src="/images/episode/654-sunroom-addition-10.jpg" /></p>
<h3>Floor Finishing</h3>
<p>An acid stain was applied to the floor of the sunroom to give it a rich brown color. Acid stains consist of muriatic (hydrochloric) acid mixed with metallic salts. The acid etches the surface which allows the salt to penetrate and react with hydrated lime in the concrete. Once the stain has dried, the acid is neutralized, and a sealer is applied to protect the surface.</p>
<p><img width="400" height="180" border="1" alt="" src="/images/episode/654-sunroom-addition-11.jpg" /></p>
<h3>Other Tips From This Episode</h3>
<div class="tip">
<p class="img"><img width="109" height="109" border="1" alt="Modifying Saw Blades for Drywall" src="/images/episode/654-sunroom-addition-ss.jpg" /></p>
<h3><a name="simplesolutions"></a>Simple Solutions with Joe Truini: <em>Modifying Saw Blades for Drywall</em></h3>
<p>Reciprocating saws work great for cutting holes in existing drywall, but the long blade can also cut through any wires, pipes, and framing. To keep this from happening, cut the blade to length with tin snips so it barely protrudes through the wallboard.</p>
</div>
<div class="tip">
<h3><a name="bestnewproducts"></a>Best New Products with Emilie Barta: <em>HomeHero Kitchen Fire Extinguisher</em></h3>
<p class="img"><img width="109" height="109" border="1" alt="HomeHero Kitchen Fire Extinguisher" src="/images/episode/654-sunroom-addition-BNP.jpg" /></p>
<p>We all know how important it is to keep a fire extinguisher handy in the kitchen, but until now their appearance has left a lot to be desired. The <a href="http://www.homehero.net/fireExtinguisher.html">HomeHero</a> fire extinguisher is ergonomically designed to make it easy to use and has a sleek look that blends with any décor. Available soon at <a href="http://www.homedepot.com/">The Home Depot</a>.</p>
</div>
<div class="tip">
<h3>Ask Danny: <em>Concrete Cracks Under Carpet</em></h3>
<p class="img"><img width="109" height="109" border="1" alt="Concrete Cracks Under Carpet" src="/images/episode/654-sunroom-addition-AD.jpg" /></p>
<p><em>I just pulled up my carpet and noticed there are cracks in the slab. Should I be concerned? –Rick from San Diego</em></p>
<p>Most cracks in slabs are small expansion cracks that should not pose a problem. If the crack will show, it can be filled with a concrete repair caulk. If the crack is 1/4” wide or wider, and one side is a different height than the other, you may have a settling problem that should be examined by a structural engineer.</p>
</div>
<p>Power tools used on <em>Today’s Homeowner with Danny Lipford</em>® are provided by <a href="http://www.ryobitools.com/">Ryobi</a>.</p>
<p><!--adsense-comments-->
</p>
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		<item>
		<title>How to Repair Cracks in Concrete</title>
		<link>http://garden.dannylipford.com/home-improvement-video/how-to-repair-cracks-in-concrete/</link>
		<comments>http://garden.dannylipford.com/home-improvement-video/how-to-repair-cracks-in-concrete/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 Apr 2008 18:51:36 +0000</pubDate>
		
	<category>Video</category>
	<category>Concrete and Masonry</category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dannylipford.com/home-improvement-video/how-to-repair-cracks-in-concrete/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p class="img"><a href="http://garden.dannylipford.com/home-improvement-video/how-to-repair-cracks-in-concrete/"><img src="/images/article/thumbnail/how-to-repair-cracks-in-concrete.jpg" width="88" height="76" alt="How to Repair Cracks in Concrete" /></a></p>
<p>Most driveways and patios develop a crack or two in the concrete over the years. These can be caused by everything from tree roots and movement of the soil to freezing and thawing cycles in the winter. Rather than breaking up the slab and pouring a new one, you might want to consider repairing it using a concrete resurfacer.</p>]]></description>
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<p>Most driveways and patios develop a crack or two in the concrete over the years. These can be caused by everything from tree roots and movement of the soil to freezing and thawing cycles in the winter. Rather than breaking up the slab and pouring a new one, you might want to consider repairing it using a concrete resurfacer.</p>
<p><img width="400" height="180" border="1" alt="" src="/images/article/how-to-repair-cracks-in-concrete-1.jpg" /></p>
<p>Start by using a pressure washer to remove any mold, mildew, and dirt. After wetting down the slab, a special masonry cleaning solution is added to the reservoir on the pressure washer and sprayed on the surface.</p>
<p><img width="400" height="180" border="1" alt="" src="/images/article/how-to-repair-cracks-in-concrete-2.jpg" /></p>
<p>Once the cleaner has been applied, a high pressure nozzle is attached to the washer and the surface is thoroughly cleaned. Be sure to clean out the cracks out as well, removing any dirt or loose concrete so the patching material will adhere to the concrete. </p>
<p><img width="400" height="180" border="1" alt="" src="/images/article/how-to-repair-cracks-in-concrete-3.jpg" /></p>
<p>Next, mix up enough Quikrete® <a href="http://www.quikrete.com/ProductLines/ConcreteResurfacer.asp">Concrete Resurfacer</a> with water in a five-gallon bucket to fill the cracks.</p>
<p><img width="400" height="180" border="1" alt="" src="/images/article/how-to-repair-cracks-in-concrete-4.jpg" /></p>
<p>A mixing paddle chucked in a ½” drill makes preparing the patching material easy.</p>
<p><img width="400" height="180" border="1" alt="" src="/images/article/how-to-repair-cracks-in-concrete-5.jpg" /></p>
<p>Make the mixture a thick consistency, and pour in on the cracks.</p>
<p><img width="400" height="180" border="1" alt="" src="/images/article/how-to-repair-cracks-in-concrete-6.jpg" /></p>
<p>Use a flat edge trowel to force the mixture deep into the cracks.</p>
<p><img width="400" height="180" border="1" alt="" src="/images/article/how-to-repair-cracks-in-concrete-7.jpg" /></p>
<p>Then smooth out the surface.</p>
<p><img width="400" height="180" border="1" alt="" src="/images/article/how-to-repair-cracks-in-concrete-8.jpg" /></p>
<p>After allowing the material to dry overnight, a much thinner batch of resurfacer is mixed up. Before applying it, wet the concrete down to prevent it from drying out too quickly.</p>
<p>Once everything is ready, the resurfacer is spread on the slab using a rubber squeegee. Getting a nice even coat without lap mark can take a bit of practice.</p>
<p><img width="400" height="180" border="1" alt="" src="/images/article/how-to-repair-cracks-in-concrete-9.jpg" /></p>
<p>When the resurfacer starts to set up, a broom with an extended handle can be used to give the fresh concrete surface texture and prevent it from becoming slippery when wet.</p>
<p><img width="400" height="180" border="1" alt="" src="/images/article/how-to-repair-cracks-in-concrete-10.jpg" /></p>
<p>The resurfacer can handle foot traffic after it has set up for about six hours, and cars can drive on it once it has cured for 24 hours. It really made this patio look new again with a whole lot less work than pouring a new slab.</p>
<p><img width="400" height="180" border="1" alt="" src="/images/article/how-to-repair-cracks-in-concrete-11.jpg" /></p>
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		<item>
		<title>Where to Find Muriatic Acid</title>
		<link>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/concrete-and-masonry/where-to-find-muriatic-acid/</link>
		<comments>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/concrete-and-masonry/where-to-find-muriatic-acid/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 04 Dec 2007 18:08:50 +0000</pubDate>
		
	<category>Concrete and Masonry</category>
	<category>Kitchens and Baths</category>
	<category>Ask Danny</category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/kitchens-and-baths/where-to-find-muriatic-acid/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Denise asks "Danny, On one of your episodes, Joe Truini said that muriatic acid would remove scum and water deposits from tile in a bathroom. What I need to know is where can I purchase muriatic acid?"</p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="text-align:center"><img src="/images/category/ask-danny.gif" alt="" width="400" height="120" style="border: 0;" /></p>
<p><em>Danny, On one of your episodes, Joe Truini said that muriatic acid would remove scum and water deposits from tile in a bathroom. What I need to know is where can I purchase muriatic acid? - Denise</em></p>
<p>Denise,</p>
<p>Muriatic acid is used to remove excess mortar from bricks and to balance the pH of swimming pools, so it can be found at both home centers and pool supply stores. At <a href="http://www.homedepot.com">The Home Depot</a> stores it is available in the gardening department with the pool supplies. Muriatic acid is strong stuff, so be sure to read all the precautions and follow directions including wearing rubber gloves and eye protection. Dilute one part acid with five parts water before using and make sure there is adequate ventilation.</p>
<p>You can read and watch the video on Joe Truini’s method of cleaning bathroom tile with muriatic acid at our website in <a href="http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/641-bathroom-makeover/#simplesolutions">Episode 641: Bathroom Makeover</a>.
</p>
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		<title>Foundation Cracks</title>
		<link>http://garden.dannylipford.com/home-improvement-video/foundation-cracks/</link>
		<comments>http://garden.dannylipford.com/home-improvement-video/foundation-cracks/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 26 Jul 2007 20:09:58 +0000</pubDate>
		
	<category>Video</category>
	<category>Concrete and Masonry</category>
	<category>Repairs and Installation</category>
	<category>Interior</category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/concrete-and-masonry/foundation-cracks/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p class="img"><a href="http://garden.dannylipford.com/home-improvement-video/foundation-cracks/"><img src="/images/article/thumbnail/foundation-cracks.jpg" width="88" height="76" alt="Foundation Cracks" /></a></p>
<p>Danny takes a look at foundation cracks under a carpet and helps sort out when to worry and when not to. Many times these cracks are from expansion and contraction, but in the rare case of something more serious from settling, you may need to call in a structural engineer.</p>
]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Danny takes a look at foundation cracks under a carpet and helps sort out when to worry and when not to. Many times these cracks are from expansion and contraction, but in the rare case of something more serious from settling, you may need to call in a structural engineer.</p>
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		<title>Pre-Engineered Masonry Fireplaces</title>
		<link>http://garden.dannylipford.com/home-improvement-video/pre-engineered-masonry-fireplaces/</link>
		<comments>http://garden.dannylipford.com/home-improvement-video/pre-engineered-masonry-fireplaces/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 12 Apr 2007 14:02:07 +0000</pubDate>
		
	<category>Video</category>
	<category>Concrete and Masonry</category>
	<category>Heating and Cooling</category>
	<category>Interior</category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/concrete-and-masonry/pre-engineered-masonry-fireplaces/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p class="img"><a href="http://garden.dannylipford.com/home-improvement-video/pre-engineered-masonry-fireplaces/"><img src="/images/article/thumbnail/pre-engineered-masonry-fireplaces.jpg" width="88" height="76" alt="Pre-Engineered Masonry Fireplaces" /></a></p>
<p>What is a pre-engineered masonry fireplace? Think of it as a fireplace that comes in pieces and is assembled on location like Lego blocks. These fireplaces install in a fraction of the time of traditional masonry fireplaces, while offering the same benefits traditional masonry fireplaces offer over metal fireplaces.</p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p class="img"><img width="109" height="109" border="1" alt="Pre-Engineered Masonry Fireplaces" src="/images/article/pre-engineered-masonry-fireplaces.jpg" /></p>
<p>In episode <a href="/diy-home-improvement/exterior/623-two-story-addition/">623: Two-Story Addition</a>, the remodel included a pre-engineered masonry fireplace that has drawn interest from many of our viewers. What is a pre-engineered masonry fireplace? Think of it as a fireplace that comes in pieces and is assembled on location like Lego blocks. These fireplaces install in a fraction of the time of traditional masonry fireplaces, while offering the same benefits traditional masonry fireplaces offer over metal fireplaces.</p>
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<p>The product that we used was manufactured by <a href="http://www.firerock.us/">Fire Rock Manufacturing</a>. If you enjoyed seeing the indoor fireplace in the episode, be sure to check out their selection of <a href="http://www.firerock.us/fireplaces.asp?id=gb">unique outdoor fireplaces</a>. They also offer other unique products like their <a href="http://www.firerock.us/fireplaces.asp?id=st">See-Thru Fireplace</a>, a fireplace that sits on a wall and is exposed to two rooms at once.</p>
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		<title>Foundation Problems</title>
		<link>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/concrete-and-masonry/foundation-problems/</link>
		<comments>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/concrete-and-masonry/foundation-problems/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 23 Oct 2006 18:40:11 +0000</pubDate>
		
	<category>Concrete and Masonry</category>
	<category>Repairs and Installation</category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://new.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/concrete-and-masonry/foundation-problems/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p class="img"><a href="http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/concrete-and-masonry/foundation-problems/"><img src="/images/article/thumbnail/foundation-problems.jpg" width="88" height="76" alt="Foundation Problems" /></a></p>
<p>A major structural problem with your home is probably every homeowner's worst nightmare. Structural problems left unattended decrease your homes value and only worsen over time. So if you are seeing signs of foundation problems around your home like cracks in your drywall, or if you have doors that do not open or close properly you probably need to have an evaluation done.</p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p class="img"><img width="109" height="109" border="1" alt="Foundation Problems" src="/images/article/foundation-problems.jpg" /></p>
<p>A major structural problem with your home is probably every homeowner&#8217;s worst nightmare. Structural problems left unattended decrease your homes value and only worsen over time. So if you are seeing signs of foundation problems around your home like cracks in your drywall, or if you have doors that do not open or close properly you probably need to have an evaluation done.</p>
<h3>Is your home suffering from foundation problems?</h3>
<p>If your home is exhibiting symptoms of foundation problems like cracks in walls, sticking and swinging doors, or uneven floors it may need foundation repair. Experienced professionals can give you an accurate analysis of your home and design a foundation repair solution.</p>
<h3>Can you sell your house for a reduced price rather than repair the foundation?</h3>
<p>If you are financing the sale yourself, this poses no problem. Loaning institutions generally will not close a loan without repairs being done or scheduled. However, beware as some state laws impose severe penalties for fraudulently concealing a structural problem from a buyer.</p>
<h3>Is your home less marketable because you have had the foundation repaired?</h3>
<p>Quite the contrary. If the foundation of your home is repaired by a reputable contractor it is considered stronger after the repairs are performed. Therefore, appraisal values will be the same, as if the problem had never developed. If you are planning on selling your home after the foundation repair work is performed the warranty from the contractor and their reputation are more important than ever.</p>
<h3>Selecting a reputable contractor to repair you home</h3>
<p>Finally, here are some important factors to consider before taking this daunting foundation problem on.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>No Contract Labor</strong> - Make sure the people performing the repairs work for the company.</li>
<li><strong>Financial Commitment</strong> - Does the contractor own or rent his equipment?</li>
<li><strong>Supervisors on Site</strong> - Is the company large enough to provide full time supervision, or will the crew be dropped off at your home to do the work?</li>
<li><strong>References</strong> - Make sure references are not hand picked.</li>
<li><strong>Warranties</strong> - Warranties are only as good as the company that offers them. A reputable company who has been in business for at least 25 years should be your best bet.</li>
<li><strong>Insurance</strong> - Ask for current insurance certificates.</li>
</ul>
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		<title>Installing Tile Over A Wood Subfloor</title>
		<link>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/concrete-and-masonry/installing-tile-over-a-wood-subfloor/</link>
		<comments>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/concrete-and-masonry/installing-tile-over-a-wood-subfloor/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 19 Oct 2006 19:42:21 +0000</pubDate>
		
	<category>Concrete and Masonry</category>
	<category>Flooring</category>
	<category>Kitchens and Baths</category>
	<category>Interior</category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://new.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/concrete-and-masonry/installing-tile-over-a-wood-subfloor/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Installing tile over a wood subfloor is a lot easier today than it was when I started my remodeling career.</p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p class="img"><img width="109" height="109" border="1" alt="Installing Tile Over A Wood Subfloor" src="/images/article/installing-tile.jpg" /></p>
<p>Installing tile over a wood subfloor is a lot easier today than it was when I started my remodeling career. The old-fashioned mud method &#8212; floating a thick mortar bed in preparation for the tile &#8212; has given way to using cement backerboard. The cement board is inexpensive ($10 or less for a 1/2-in.-thick, 3&#215;5-ft. sheet), easy to cut and install and sufficient for most installations. Among the trade names you&#8217;ll see are Durock, made by U.S. Gypsum Corp., and PermaBase, from National Gypsum Co.</p>
<p>Manufacturers provide clear installation instructions with their products, but there are a few other important points you need to know to guarantee a long-lasting installation. For example, I always like to remove the old flooring material so I can check the subfloor for any water damage. Years of water seeping along the edge of a bathtub or shower can cause areas of rot that need to be repaired.</p>
<p>If everything is in good shape, my carpenters drive corrosion-resistant screws through the plywood and into joists below to ensure a firm foundation for the tile. We set the heads of all screws and any existing nails slightly beneath the wood surface. And we use a lightweight gypsum leveling compound to fill and level voids or low spots. We&#8217;ve found that if you take this kind of care with the prep work, the finished tile won&#8217;t crack with use.</p>
<p>The proper fasteners, mortar, tile adhesive and joint tape are all specified by the manufacturer. Don&#8217;t use drywall screws &#8212; ever. Another mistake I often see is grout wedged between the last row of tiles and the tub, cabinets or doorsill. Grout in these transitional areas will crack as the floor goes through expansion and contraction. These areas should get a bead of acrylic caulk so the joint remains flexible.</p>
<p>I&#8217;m often asked by homeowners if it&#8217;s possible to lay down new tile over an existing tile floor. This is not my favorite way to install tile, but it can be done, as long as the existing tile and subfloor are in good condition and the old tile gets scuffed to let the new mortar get a grip. The combination of newly applied mortar and tile will raise the level of the floor by at least 3/8 in. Trimming the bottom of the bathroom door and building up the doorsill usually hide the fact there are two layers of tile instead of one.</p>
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		<title>Maintenance Free Outdoors</title>
		<link>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/concrete-and-masonry/maintenance-free-outdoors/</link>
		<comments>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/concrete-and-masonry/maintenance-free-outdoors/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 11 Oct 2006 20:21:22 +0000</pubDate>
		
	<category>Concrete and Masonry</category>
	<category>Decks and Patios</category>
	<category>Exterior</category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://new.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/concrete-and-masonry/maintanence-free-outdoors/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p class="img"><a href="http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/concrete-and-masonry/maintenance-free-outdoors/"><img src="/images/article/thumbnail/maintenance-free-outdoors.jpg" width="88" height="76" alt="Maintenance Free Outdoors" /></a></p>
<p>With the weather warming up homeowners are ready for weekends spent outdoors, but you don't want to end up constantly maintaining your new decks, patios, and walkways. There are a number of things Danny shared in the Satellite Media Tour including many tips and solutions for homeowners as well as the latest news on materials and products now available to help you make your outdoor projects not only easier and quicker to do, but virtually maintenance free as well.</p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="text-align: center"><img width="400" height="120" border="1" alt="Maintenance Free Outdoors" src="/images/article/maintenance-free-outdoors.jpg" /></p>
<p>With the weather warming up homeowners are ready for weekends spent outdoors, but you don&#8217;t want to end up constantly maintaining your new decks, patios, and walkways. There are a number of things Danny shared in the Satellite Media Tour including many tips and solutions for homeowners as well as the latest news on materials and products now available to help you make your outdoor projects not only easier and quicker to do, but virtually maintenance free as well.</p>
<h3><a href="http://www.cranesiding.com/solidcore_overview.asp">Crane Board Solid Core Siding</a></h3>
<p>At the top of the list for maintenance free pleasure is Crane Board Solid Core Siding. With each panel made of three 6&#8243; planks it provides the same look as the popular wood siding but without all the effort and maintenance.</p>
<ul>
<li>18&#8243; panels are more than 2 times as wide as cedar, fiber cement, and vinyl siding</li>
<li>Covers more area for 50% fewer seams.</li>
<li>Interlocking edges keep seams tight and flat</li>
<li>4 times the insulating power of ordinary siding - saves valuable energy dollars</li>
<li>17% better air infiltration protection than siding with standard backer board</li>
<li>300% more impact resistance than vinyl siding</li>
<li>Eliminates up to 31% more noise than vinyl siding</li>
<li>Can withstand winds up to 130mph.</li>
<li>Never needs painting!</li>
</ul>
<h3><a href="http://www.timbertech.com">TimberTech Engineered Decking Systems</a></h3>
<p>Offers hassle-free decking and elaborate designs with the TimberTech Tongue-and-Groove Planks and the new Ornamental Railing System. Both are designed to provide the look of wood while being easier to install and maintain.</p>
<ul>
<li>Consistent color quality to minimize variations</li>
<li>Additives to guard against harmful UV weathering to ensure minimal fading</li>
<li>Water flows freely off surface</li>
<li>No sanding, sealing, painting or restaining ever required</li>
<li>Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) compliant for non-slip walking surfaces</li>
<li>No knots, splinters, or curves</li>
<li>11% more coverage than traditional lumber</li>
<li>10-year limited warranty</li>
<li>Won&#8217;t rot, warp or suffer insect damage</li>
<li>Ornamental railing kit available in 6&#8242; and 8&#8242; kits</li>
<li>Railing System accessories available</li>
</ul>
<h3><a href="http://www.quikrete.com/catalog/catalog_bforms.html">Quikrete Walk Maker Building Forms</a></h3>
<p>A cost-effective and time-efficient landscaping option to enhance the appearance of a home is with Quikrete concrete products. Easily and inexpensively boosting the look of your outdoor areas with Quikrete Walk Maker Building Forms. The reusable plastic molds are designed to form concrete into the look of brick, block or stone walkways, borders and patios.</p>
<ul>
<li>Customize your borders with imprints</li>
<li>Add color for an authentic look</li>
<li>Dries between 20 minutes to 1 hour</li>
<li>Save time with multiple building forms</li>
<li>3 easy steps- mixing and placement, fill mold, removing and finishing</li>
<li>Average price: 80# cm (2.75 bag)
<ul>
<li>1 bag = 1 for 2&#8242;x2&#8242;</li>
<li>4 square</li>
<li>$2.75/ 4= 0.69 square</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>Form Retail: $15-$20</li>
</ul>
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		<title>Patio Pavers</title>
		<link>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/concrete-and-masonry/patio-pavers/</link>
		<comments>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/concrete-and-masonry/patio-pavers/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 11 Oct 2006 19:41:58 +0000</pubDate>
		
	<category>Concrete and Masonry</category>
	<category>Decks and Patios</category>
	<category>Lawn and Garden</category>
	<category>Exterior</category>
	<category>Landscaping &amp; Design</category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://new.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/patio-pavers/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p class="img"><a href="http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/concrete-and-masonry/patio-pavers/"><img src="/images/article/thumbnail/patio-pavers.jpg" width="88" height="76" alt="Patio Pavers" /></a></p>
<p>Spring means spending time outdoors and for many of us that means our own little backyard paradise. However a suitable surface for the barbecue grill, table, and chairs is a must. Here are some tips for creating your own custom paver patio.</p>]]></description>
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<p style="text-align: center"><img width="400" height="120" border="1" alt="Patio Pavers" src="/images/article/patio-pavers.jpg" /></p>
<p>Spring means spending time outdoors and for many of us that means our own little backyard paradise. However a suitable surface for the barbecue grill, table, and chairs is a must. Here are some tips for creating your own custom paver patio.</p>
<h3>Paver Options</h3>
<p class="img"><img width="109" height="109" border="1" alt="Paver Options" src="/images/article/paver-options.jpg" /></p>
<p>Pavers are available in a variety of sizes, shapes, and materials so you can create almost any look you desire. Do some careful shopping at the home center or brick supplier to make your final decision. The pavers seen here are brick pavers designed specifically for the dry fit installation we&#8217;re describing (<a href="http://www.pinehallbrick.com/product_gallery/pg_series.cfm?seriesID=8&#038;type=1">English Edge from Pine Hall Brick</a>). What make them special are the small ribs on the edges that will allow sand to sift in between the bricks when the installation is complete.</p>
<h3>Patio Preparation</h3>
<p class="img"><img width="109" height="109" border="1" alt="Patio Preparation" src="/images/article/patio-preparation.jpg" /></p>
<p>Begin by clearing and leveling the area to be paved. You will want to remove all plant matter and you may even treat the area with weed killer before you begin paving. To ensure that water will run off the paved area (for example, away from the house) create a slight slope by grading the ground to drop about 1/4&#8242; per foot in the direction you want the water to travel. Then pack the soil down firmly with a hand tamp or allow a good rain to do the job for you.</p>
<h3>Paver Layout</h3>
<p class="img"><img width="109" height="109" border="1" alt="Paver Layout" src="/images/article/paver-layout.jpg" /></p>
<p>Next you&#8217;ll want to define the patio area with the material that will contain your pavers. 1&#215;4 or 2&#215;4 treated lumber (redwood, cedar, or cypress) works well for this or you can purchase flexible plastic edging (for creating curves) to do the job. The lumber or edging is staked in place to create a perimeter form around the area to be paved. Spread one to three inches of course sand inside the forms. Level the sand with a screed board made from a straight 2&#215;4. To ensure that the sand is the same depth throughout the area, nail scraps of wood on both ends of the 2&#215;4 at equal heights from the bottom. These scraps, or ears, will rest on the forms as you drag the screed across the space, keeping the sand at a uniform level. Leaving the thickness of a paver from the top of the form down to the sand level works well.</p>
<h3>Laying the Pavers</h3>
<p class="img"><img width="109" height="109" border="1" alt="Laying the Pavers" src="/images/article/pavers-laying.jpg" /></p>
<p>Now you&#8217;re ready to begin laying pavers. You can use any pattern you like (basket weave, herringbone, running bond, etc.) just be sure you keep them tight together. This is where the small ribs mentioned earlier come in handy. They allow you to push the bricks snuggly together and still leave space for the sand, which is the next step. When all the bricks are in, spread sand over the whole surface and work it into the spaces with a broom. You may have to reapply sand over the first week or so as traffic and water cause it to settle into the gaps. This kind of patio surface is easier for the do-it-yourselfer than pouring concrete and it can be much more attractive. Plus it drains well because it&#8217;s not solid and you can change the size and shape of the area as your needs change.</p>
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