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<channel>
	<title>Danny Lipford</title>
	<link>http://garden.dannylipford.com</link>
	<description>Expert Advice on Home Improvement</description>
	<pubDate>Wed, 14 May 2008 19:20:09 +0000</pubDate>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=2.0.4</generator>
	<language>en</language>
			<item>
		<title>Installing a Ceramic Tile Backsplash Over Drywall</title>
		<link>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/kitchens-and-baths/installing-ceramic-tile-backsplash-over/</link>
		<comments>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/kitchens-and-baths/installing-ceramic-tile-backsplash-over/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 14 May 2008 19:20:09 +0000</pubDate>
		
	<category>Kitchens and Baths</category>
	<category>Ask Danny</category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/kitchens-and-baths/installing-ceramic-tile-backsplash-over/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<div class='quickpick'><p><em>I am planning to install a ceramic backsplash above my laminate counter top in the kitchen over the  painted drywall. What kind of treatment is needed for the drywall so that it does not get moist? Also, a quick step-by-step procedure would help a lot, too. -Raj</em></p>

<p>Hi Raj,</p>
<p>You should be able to tile right over your existing drywall with no problem. Once the adhesive dries and the grout has set, it will be imperious to moisture.</p>

<p>For detailed instructions on how to install a ceramic tile backsplash, check out the following article, <a href="/diy-home-improvement/kitchens-and-baths/ceramic-tile-backsplash-project/">Ceramic Tile Backsplash Project</a>, and video, <a href="/home-improvement-video/ceramic-tile-backsplash/">Ceramic Tile Backsplash</a>, on our website.</p>

<p>Good luck with your project,</p>
<p><img src="/images/signature.gif" width="50" height="50" alt="Danny" style="border: 0;"></p></div>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em>I am planning to install a ceramic backsplash above my laminate counter top in the kitchen over the  painted drywall. What kind of treatment is needed for the drywall so that it does not get moist? Also, a quick step-by-step procedure would help a lot, too. -Raj</em></p>
<p>Hi Raj,</p>
<p>You should be able to tile right over your existing drywall with no problem. Once the adhesive dries and the grout has set, it will be imperious to moisture.</p>
<p>For detailed instructions on how to install a ceramic tile backsplash, check out the following article, <a href="/diy-home-improvement/kitchens-and-baths/ceramic-tile-backsplash-project/">Ceramic Tile Backsplash Project</a>, and video, <a href="/home-improvement-video/ceramic-tile-backsplash/">Ceramic Tile Backsplash</a>, on our website.</p>
<p>Good luck with your project,</p>
<p><img src="/images/signature.gif" width="50" height="50" alt="Danny" style="border: 0;"></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>How to Soundproof a Basement Ceiling</title>
		<link>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/attics-and-basements/how-to-soundproof-a-basement-ceiling/</link>
		<comments>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/attics-and-basements/how-to-soundproof-a-basement-ceiling/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 May 2008 15:48:36 +0000</pubDate>
		
	<category>Attics and Basements</category>
	<category>Repairs and Installation</category>
	<category>Ask Danny</category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/attics-and-basements/how-to-soundproof-a-basement-ceiling/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<div class='quickpick'><p><em>I'm going to finish a portion of the basement for my 12-year-old daughter and her pals to have a place to “hang out.” This section happens to be under the great room on the main floor. Are there products to help in noise reduction, and, if so, what options exist and how are they installed?-Steve</em></p>

<p>Hi Steve,</p>
<p>Start by insulating the space between the basement ceiling joists with a sound dampening insulation like <a href="http://www.owenscorning.com/quietzone/products/products.asp">Owens Corning QuietZone</a> fiberglass insulation. Next, you might want to consider using a soundproofing drywall such as <a href="http://www.quietsolution.com/html/quietrock.html">QuietRock</a> for the ceiling. You can watch and read more about QuietRock, on our website at <a href="/diy-home-improvement/622-builders-show-special/">(622) Builders’ Show Special</a>.</p>

<p>Good luck with your project,</p>
<p><img src="/images/signature.gif" width="50" height="50" alt="Danny" style="border: 0;"></p></div>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em>I&#8217;m going to finish a portion of the basement for my 12-year-old daughter and her pals to have a place to “hang out.” This section happens to be under the great room on the main floor. Are there products to help in noise reduction, and, if so, what options exist and how are they installed?-Steve</em></p>
<p>Hi Steve,</p>
<p>Start by insulating the space between the basement ceiling joists with a sound dampening insulation like <a href="http://www.owenscorning.com/quietzone/products/products.asp">Owens Corning QuietZone</a> fiberglass insulation. Next, you might want to consider using a soundproofing drywall such as <a href="http://www.quietsolution.com/html/quietrock.html">QuietRock</a> for the ceiling. You can watch and read more about QuietRock, on our website at <a href="/diy-home-improvement/622-builders-show-special/">(622) Builders’ Show Special</a>.</p>
<p>Good luck with your project,</p>
<p><img src="/images/signature.gif" width="50" height="50" alt="Danny" style="border: 0;"></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Solving Polyurethane Finishing Problems</title>
		<link>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/flooring/solving-polyurethane-finishing-problems/</link>
		<comments>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/flooring/solving-polyurethane-finishing-problems/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 18 Apr 2008 19:45:09 +0000</pubDate>
		
	<category>Flooring</category>
	<category>Repairs and Installation</category>
	<category>Ask Danny</category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/flooring/solving-polyurethane-finishing-problems/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Thomas asks, "I put polyurethane on cabinets after I stained them.  Now a week later, I find oil on the surface of the cabinets, and when I try to clean it, it leaves dull spots. I don't know what to do, or what is the problem.  H-E-E-E-E-L-P!!!"</p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="text-align:center"><img src="/images/category/ask-danny.gif" alt="" width="400" height="120" style="border: 0;" /></p>
<p><em>I put polyurethane on cabinets after I stained them.  Now a week later, I find oil on the surface of the cabinets, and when I try to clean it, it leaves dull spots. I don&#8217;t know what to do, or what is the problem.  H-E-E-E-E-L-P!!! - Thomas</em></p>
<p>Thomas,</p>
<p>Polyurethane finishes should dry hard in a matter of hours and not bleed oil as yours is doing. Here are some possible reasons for the problem:</p>
<ul>
<li>Using an old or partially used can of finish.</li>
<li>Using a can of finish that has been subjected to extreme temperatures.</li>
<li>Not stirring the finish thoroughly before application.</li>
<li>Applying the finish outside the recommended temperature and humidity range.</li>
<li>Applying over an oily surface, or over certain exotic woods—like rosewood, teak, ebony, and cocobolo—that contain natural oils.</li>
</ul>
<p>If you have followed these guidelines, the problem may be with the finish itself.</p>
<p>As far as solving your problem goes, if the finish has stopped bleeding oil and feels like it has dried hard, you might be able to even out the gloss by wiping the cabinets down with a rag dampened with mineral spirits (assuming it was oil-based polyurethane) followed by a dry cloth. Be sure to extinguish any pilot lights and open flames and use adequate ventilation when working indoors with mineral spirits.</p>
<p>If the gloss is still uneven, try sanding it lightly with 220 grit sandpaper and applying another coat of finish. Use a fresh can of the same finish from a different store in case the batch in question was bad. If you continue to have problems, the only alternative might be to strip the cabinets and start all over again.</p>
<p>Good luck,</p>
<p><img src="/images/signature.gif" width="50" height="50" alt="Danny" style="border: 0;"></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Laying Wood Flooring Over Tile</title>
		<link>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/flooring/laying-wood-flooring-over-tile/</link>
		<comments>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/flooring/laying-wood-flooring-over-tile/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 Apr 2008 16:33:44 +0000</pubDate>
		
	<category>Flooring</category>
	<category>Repairs and Installation</category>
	<category>Ask Danny</category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/flooring/laying-wood-flooring-over-tile/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<div class='quickpick'><p><em>We are thinking about replacing our tile floor in the kitchen with hardwood. The tile is laid in a concrete foundation and would be huge mess to rip up.  Is it possible to lay hardwood over an existing tile floor? If so, what do you recommend? -Donna</em></p>

<p>Hi Donna,</p>

<p>Yes, you can lay a wood floor over tile if the existing floor is in good shape and without cracks. I would suggest 3/8” thick, prefinished engineered hardwood flooring. You can install it either as a floating floor that locks together and is not attached to the tile, or glue it down. Check to be sure the existing floor is flat first and fill in any low spots with leveling compound. If the floor is being glued to a slick surface, rough the tiles up a bit by sanding them to allow the adhesive to adhere better.</p>

<p>Good luck with your project,</p>
<p><img src="/images/signature.gif" width="50" height="50" alt="Danny" style="border: 0;"></p></div>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em>We are thinking about replacing our tile floor in the kitchen with hardwood. The tile is laid in a concrete foundation and would be huge mess to rip up.  Is it possible to lay hardwood over an existing tile floor? If so, what do you recommend? -Donna</em></p>
<p>Hi Donna,</p>
<p>Yes, you can lay a wood floor over tile if the existing floor is in good shape and without cracks. I would suggest 3/8” thick, prefinished engineered hardwood flooring. You can install it either as a floating floor that locks together and is not attached to the tile, or glue it down. Check to be sure the existing floor is flat first and fill in any low spots with leveling compound. If the floor is being glued to a slick surface, rough the tiles up a bit by sanding them to allow the adhesive to adhere better.</p>
<p>Good luck with your project,</p>
<p><img src="/images/signature.gif" width="50" height="50" alt="Danny" style="border: 0;"></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Checking for Hidden Water Damage</title>
		<link>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/safety-and-security/checking-for-hidden-water-damage/</link>
		<comments>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/safety-and-security/checking-for-hidden-water-damage/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 28 Mar 2008 19:21:23 +0000</pubDate>
		
	<category>Safety and Security</category>
	<category>Repairs and Installation</category>
	<category>Ask Danny</category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/safety-and-security/checking-for-hidden-water-damage/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<div class='quickpick'><p><em>We are in the process of purchasing a new home, but it has a strong damp/musty odor. How can we make sure it has no water damage? -Raul</em></p>

<p>Raul,</p>

<p>There are a number of possibilities that could be causing your problem including a leaky roof, plumbing leaks, excessive moisture in the crawl space, a slab that wasn’t waterproofed correctly, condensation in the walls due to an improperly installed vapor barrier, or damage from flooding.</p>

<p>While it’s not easy to check inside of walls, you can inspect the attic as well as under the house or in the basement for signs of leaks, moisture buildup, mold, or rot. A moisture meter can be used to check for excessive moisture in wood while a hygrometer can determine the moisture content of the air.</p>

<p>Water stains on rafters are a telltale sign of leaks, either past or present. Also, be sure to examine the floor joists under the house for signs of mold. If the house is in an area prone to flooding, look in out of the way places—like closets and inside of cabinets—for stain lines on the walls or water damage on the floor.</p>

<p>I would definitely have a competent home inspector examine the house before you purchase it, as mold and excessive humidity can be costly to eliminate.</p>

<p>Check out our article <a href="/diy-home-improvement/safety-and-security/how-to-prevent-and-remove-mold/">How to Prevent and Remove Mold</a> and <a href="/diy-home-improvement/attics-and-basements/attic-basement-frequently-asked-questions/"> Attic and Basement Frequently Asked Questions</a> for more information.</p>

<p><img src="/images/signature.gif" width="50" height="50" alt="Danny" style="border: 0;"></p></div>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em>We are in the process of purchasing a new home, but it has a strong damp/musty odor. How can we make sure it has no water damage? -Raul</em></p>
<p>Raul,</p>
<p>There are a number of possibilities that could be causing your problem including a leaky roof, plumbing leaks, excessive moisture in the crawl space, a slab that wasn’t waterproofed correctly, condensation in the walls due to an improperly installed vapor barrier, or damage from flooding.</p>
<p>While it’s not easy to check inside of walls, you can inspect the attic as well as under the house or in the basement for signs of leaks, moisture buildup, mold, or rot. A moisture meter can be used to check for excessive moisture in wood while a hygrometer can determine the moisture content of the air.</p>
<p>Water stains on rafters are a telltale sign of leaks, either past or present. Also, be sure to examine the floor joists under the house for signs of mold. If the house is in an area prone to flooding, look in out of the way places—like closets and inside of cabinets—for stain lines on the walls or water damage on the floor.</p>
<p>I would definitely have a competent home inspector examine the house before you purchase it, as mold and excessive humidity can be costly to eliminate.</p>
<p>Check out our articles <a href="/diy-home-improvement/safety-and-security/how-to-prevent-and-remove-mold/">How to Prevent and Remove Mold</a> and <a href="/diy-home-improvement/attics-and-basements/attic-basement-frequently-asked-questions/">Attic and Basement Frequently Asked Questions</a> for more information.</p>
<p><img src="/images/signature.gif" width="50" height="50" alt="Danny" style="border: 0;"></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Priming Before You Paint</title>
		<link>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/painting/priming-before-you-paint/</link>
		<comments>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/painting/priming-before-you-paint/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 27 Mar 2008 15:37:21 +0000</pubDate>
		
	<category>Painting</category>
	<category>Ask Danny</category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/painting/priming-before-you-paint/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<div class='quickpick'><p><em>Is it always necessary to prime before you paint over a previous paint job? -Cedric</em></p>

<p>Cedric,</p>

<p>Unless the surface is unfinished or you’re switching between types of paint—such as oil based woodwork being covered by latex paint—you don’t have to prime before painting again. If the surface is dirty or greasy, clean it thoroughly before painting. If it is glossy, it’s a good idea to dull it first with sandpaper or a liquid deglosser.</p>

<p>For more information on priming, see our article <a href="/diy-home-improvement/painting/homeowners-guide-paint-primer/">A Homeowner’s Guide to Paint Primer</a>.</p>

<p><img src="/images/signature.gif" width="50" height="50" alt="Danny" style="border: 0;"></p></div>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em>Is it always necessary to prime before you paint over a previous paint job? -Cedric</em></p>
<p>Cedric,</p>
<p>Unless the surface is unfinished or you’re switching between types of paint—such as oil based woodwork being covered by latex paint—you don’t have to prime before painting again. If the surface is dirty or greasy, clean it thoroughly before painting. If it is glossy, it’s a good idea to dull it first with sandpaper or a liquid deglosser.</p>
<p>For more information on priming, see our article <a href="/diy-home-improvement/painting/homeowners-guide-paint-primer/">A Homeowner’s Guide to Paint Primer</a>.</p>
<p><img src="/images/signature.gif" width="50" height="50" alt="Danny" style="border: 0;"></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Venting a Stove Through the Roof</title>
		<link>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/attics-and-basements/venting-a-stove-through-the-roof/</link>
		<comments>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/attics-and-basements/venting-a-stove-through-the-roof/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 19 Mar 2008 14:39:58 +0000</pubDate>
		
	<category>Attics and Basements</category>
	<category>Kitchens and Baths</category>
	<category>Ask Danny</category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/attics-and-basements/venting-a-stove-through-the-roof/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<div class='quickpick'>
<p><em>I have a range that is located against an outside brick wall in a one-story kitchen with a flat roof. To avoid going through the brick wall, can I vent the hood straight up through roof? What sort of cap would I use that would prevent insects from entering but would still operate properly in a strong wind or with a heavy snow load? Thanks! John</em></p>

<p>Hi John,</p>

<p>Yes, you can vent a range hood through the roof using a 6” single wall pipe. You can buy the proper flashing to install it on a flat roof and a roof cap that has screen around it to prevent insects from entering. Be sure to extend the pipe up at least 2’ to 3’ to prevent snow buildup from causing problems.</p>

<p><img src="/images/signature.gif" width="50" height="50" alt="Danny" style="border: 0;"></p>
</div>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em>I have a range that is located against an outside brick wall in a one-story kitchen with a flat roof. To avoid going through the brick wall, can I vent the hood straight up through roof? What sort of cap would I use that would prevent insects from entering but would still operate properly in a strong wind or with a heavy snow load? Thanks! John</em></p>
<p>Hi John,</p>
<p>Yes, you can vent a range hood through the roof using a 6” single wall pipe. You can buy the proper flashing to install it on a flat roof and a roof cap that has screen around it to prevent insects from entering. Be sure to extend the pipe up at least 2’ to 3’ to prevent snow buildup from causing problems.</p>
<p><img src="/images/signature.gif" width="50" height="50" alt="Danny" style="border: 0;"></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Basement Laundry Room Plumbing</title>
		<link>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/plumbing/basement-laundry-room-plumbing/</link>
		<comments>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/plumbing/basement-laundry-room-plumbing/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 12 Mar 2008 16:39:20 +0000</pubDate>
		
	<category>Plumbing</category>
	<category>Ask Danny</category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/plumbing/basement-laundry-room-plumbing/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<div class='quickpick'><p><em>My laundry room is currently on the main floor of my home. We would like to move it to the basement and turn the present room into a half bath. We have a septic tank in the back and all of the current drain pipes are in the back right corner of my basement. How should we do this? - Casey</em></p>

<p>Hi Casey,</p>
<p>You would need to install a "grinder pump" or "lift station" to pump the drain water from the washer up to the level of your drain pipe so it can be fed into your septic tank. A plumber would be familiar with this type of system.</p>
<p><img src="/images/signature.gif" width="50" height="50" alt="Danny" style="border: 0;"></p></div>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em>My laundry room is currently on the main floor of my home. We would like to move it to the basement and turn the present room into a half bath. We have a septic tank in the back and all of the current drain pipes are in the back right corner of my basement. How should we do this? - Casey</em></p>
<p>Hi Casey,</p>
<p>You would need to install a &#8220;grinder pump&#8221; or &#8220;lift station&#8221; to pump the drain water from the washer up to the level of your drain pipe so it can be fed into your septic tank. A plumber would be familiar with this type of system.</p>
<p><img src="/images/signature.gif" width="50" height="50" alt="Danny" style="border: 0;"></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>How to Paint Knotty Pine</title>
		<link>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/painting/how-to-paint-knotty-pine/</link>
		<comments>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/painting/how-to-paint-knotty-pine/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Mar 2008 15:38:04 +0000</pubDate>
		
	<category>Painting</category>
	<category>Ask Danny</category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/painting/how-to-paint-knotty-pine/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<div class='quickpick'><p><em>Is there a product that will cover up the knot holes in knotty pine should I decide to paint the wood a light color? - Judy</em></p>

<p>Judy,</p>

<p>Large knots, like those found in knotty pine, can pose a problem when painting, since the resin in them has a tendency to bleed back through the finished surface. To prevent this, spot prime any knots first with an oil based or pigmented shellac primer that is designed to prevent bleeding. If there are a lot of knots, prime the entire surface to give it a more even texture. If the boards have been varnished, lightly sand them and wipe off any dust before priming so the primer will adhere well. More information on primers is available on our website at <a href="/diy-home-improvement/painting/homeowners-guide-paint-primer/">A Homeowner’s Guide to Paint Primer</a>.</p>

<p>Good luck with your project,</p>
<p><img src="/images/signature.gif" width="50" height="50" alt="Danny" style="border: 0;"></p></div>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em>Is there a product that will cover up the knot holes in knotty pine should I decide to paint the wood a light color? - Judy</em></p>
<p>Judy,</p>
<p>Large knots, like those found in knotty pine, can pose a problem when painting, since the resin in them has a tendency to bleed back through the finished surface. To prevent this, spot prime any knots first with an oil based or pigmented shellac primer that is designed to prevent bleeding. If there are a lot of knots, prime the entire surface to give it a more even texture. If the boards have been varnished, lightly sand them and wipe off any dust before priming so the primer will adhere well. More information on primers is available on our website at <a href="/diy-home-improvement/painting/homeowners-guide-paint-primer/">A Homeowner’s Guide to Paint Primer</a>.</p>
<p>Good luck with your project,</p>
<p><img src="/images/signature.gif" width="50" height="50" alt="Danny" style="border: 0;"></p>
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		<title>Replacing a Telephone Jack</title>
		<link>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/electrical-and-lighting/replacing-a-telephone-jack/</link>
		<comments>http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/electrical-and-lighting/replacing-a-telephone-jack/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 06 Mar 2008 15:35:43 +0000</pubDate>
		
	<category>Electrical and Lighting</category>
	<category>Interior</category>
	<category>Ask Danny</category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/electrical-and-lighting/replacing-a-telephone-jack/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p class="img"><a href="http://garden.dannylipford.com/diy-home-improvement/electrical-and-lighting/replacing-a-telephone-jack/"><img src="/images/article/thumbnail/replacing-telephone-jack.jpg" width="88" height="76" alt="Replacing a Telephone Jack" /></a></p>
<p>Sylvia asks, "Is it difficult to replace an existing telephone jack?  Does the electricity need to be turned off to replace it?" Replacing a phone jack in not difficult and typically just requires transferring the color coded wires from the old jack to the matching terminals on the new one. While telephone lines do have 48 volts of electricity running through them, it’s usually not enough to cause a shock, though it may affect a pacemaker.</p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="text-align:center"><img src="/images/category/ask-danny.gif" alt="" width="400" height="120" style="border: 0;" /></p>
<p><em>Is it difficult to replace an existing telephone jack?  Does the electricity need to be turned off to replace it? -Sylvia</em></p>
<p>Sylvia,</p>
<p>Replacing a phone jack in not difficult and typically just requires transferring the color coded wires from the old jack to the matching terminals on the new one. While telephone lines do have 48 volts of electricity running through them, it’s usually not enough to cause a shock, though it may affect a pacemaker.</p>
<p><img width="400" height="120" border="1" alt="" src="/images/article/replacing-telephone-jack.jpg" /></p>
<p>The electricity in a phone line does spike to around 90 volts when the phone rings, which can give a mild shock. To prevent this from happening, unplug the modular jack at the telephone interface box where the line runs into your house, and check to be sure the phone is dead before working on it. Another option is to take a second phone off the hook to prevent it from ringing.</p>
<p>Since phone lines have their own source of electricity, they remain energized even when the power is off, so flipping the breakers to your house will not make any difference. Also, never work on the phone line during a thunderstorm since lightning can travel through the wire and result in serious injury.</p>
<p>For more information on replacing a phone jack, see our article <a href="/diy-home-improvement/electrical-and-lighting/how-to-install-a-phone-jack/">How to Install a Phone Jack</a>.
</p>
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